The Following List are Supplies I Use in My Video "FIELD TO FREEZER", in my Shop, the Field and Recommend for this Purpose. I've Attached some with Pictures of the Items and some with Links. The Links are Provided as a Convenience, for more Choices, for all Budgets. Thank you. - Rick
In this Video, I Use, and Recommend the Outdoor Edge Kodi-Pak KP-1 Caper Gut-Hook Skinner Saw Combo with Leather Belt Sheath. It's a Quality, Useful, Easy-to-Carry Set that will last me for many years. It's a bit Pricey, but, I Considered it a good Investment. Holds an Edge well too.
CLICK HERE FOR MORE "OUTDOOR EDGE" KNIFE CHOICES
If you can't Afford the Kodi-Pak, this set is very Similar, but, less Expensive.
CLICK HERE FOR ADDITIONAL FIELD DRESSING KNIVES AND KNIFE SETS
CLICK HERE FOR A LARGE VARIETY OF HUNTING KNIVES
Special Expensive Knives or Field Dressing Kits are not a requirement to Properly Field Dress an Animal. There are Plenty of Quality Knives I would Recommend using that are under $30.00 USD. If you Choose a Folding Knife, be sure it has a Locking Blade. Here are a Few I would Recommend.
CLICK HERE FOR A LARGE VARIETY OF KNIVES
I use Several Different Types of Knife Sharpeners. I Always Keep my Knives Sharp. The Following are a Couple of Examples of what I use and Recommend.
CLICK HERE FOR ADDITIONAL KNIFE SHARPENER CHOICES
FIELD DRESSING AND SKINNING GLOVES
CLICK HERE FOR ADDITIONAL FIELD DRESSING GLOVES
ALWAYS HAVE A FIRST AID KIT WITH YOU IN THE FIELD!
CLICK HERE FOR MORE FIRST AID KIT CHOICES
STRONG ROPE for DRAGGING AND HANGING. It needs to be at Least a Couple Hundred Pound Strength.
CLICK HERE FOR CHOICES OF HEAVY DUTY ROPE
If you use a Gambrel, make sure it is Sturdy Enough to Safely Hold the Weight of the Animal, plus, more. When the Animal is Hanging from the Gambrel, you'll be Pulling, Skinning and Butchering, and therefore putting more Demand on the Gambrel Strength.
CLICK HERE FOR ADDITIONAL GAMBRELS
In Warmer Weather, I use bags to cover my Game to keep the bugs, flies, etc. off. They're reasonably Priced and well-worth it.
CLICK HERE FOR MORE CHOICES OF GAME AND CARCASS BAGS
There are a Wide Variety of Quality Skinning Knives to Choose from. Here are a Couple I have used and Recommend.
CLICK HERE FOR ADDITIONAL SKINNING KNIVES
Butcher Knife Blade Length should be at Least 5" to 8". Find a Knife you are Comfortable with and it can be used in many Areas for many Years.
CLICK HERE FOR A WIDE VARIETY OF BUTCHER KNIVES
CLICK HERE FOR TOPO MAPS FOR SAFER AND EFFECTIVE BIG GAME HUNTING
CLICK HERE FOR A LARGE VARIETY OF HUNTING SUPPLIES
If you have any Questions, email me Anytime.
Hello. I just saw your video on YouTube about pickling a deer hide. I was wondering if you were familiar with tawing? I have a friend that wants a deerskin cape. I have it and I'm afraid to work with it. I salted it for 5 days, rinsed it off, put it in vinegar for 24hrs, then spread tawing paste over it. It's finally dry and I'm afraid to wet it to apply new tawing paste. I don't want the hair to slip. What is the best way to tan deerskin with the fur on? I have cod liver oil, ammonia, and Neatsfoot oil. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteSounds like you are trying to do what's called an Alum tan. Vinegar isn't strong enough for the pickle. I don't know what the ammonia could be used for. You're too far into it now to do it a different way. Wet the hide to soften it and check to see if the hair slips. That'll tell you if you should continue or not. If no slippage, you can go right into the softening stage by applying the Neetsfoot Oil and breaking it. Try to keep it soft by adding Neetsfoot Oil. If you have a hard spot, spray it down with water to get it moist. You HAVE to keep breaking it as it dries. Otherwise, it'll end up hard as a rock. Wouldn't know why you need to do the Alum stage again. Alum tanning is usually for the smaller hides.
DeleteHope this helps. Email anytime. - Rick
I have a five part video series on tanning deerskin with the hair on. You may want to choose this method next time. See link below:
http://wyomingtaxidermy.blogspot.com/2013/01/hair-on-tanning-video-1-of-series.html
You are awesome! Just wanted to say a big "Thank You" for sharing your experience in a very understanding and professional manner!
ReplyDeleteGreat comments. Thank you for taking the time to write them in. Good luck to you. - Rick
Deletethanks for the reply on youtube, I'm looking at the knife sets you suggested. I was curious if you had an opinion on burying deer skulls. I buried mine on sunday night, and I'm gonna wait about 6 months to dig it up? is this process any good?? I just didn't have the cash or time, nor space in kitchen to boil it. so I'm hopeing I can get mother natures help cleaning the skull.. sucks I read that the antlers may lose their color.. what are you thoughts?
ReplyDeleteIt'll fade and get very dirty. I don't know where you live, but, if you have cold temperatures, the bug activity underground will be nonexistent. If you do leave it underground, make sure you get all the pieces when you dig it up. Some parts will probably fall off, like teeth, etc.. That's okay, though, they can be glued back on.
DeleteA better way, if you can't boil it, is to get the skin off the head, wire it up on a tree outside. The birds will clean it up until it's frozen. It'll be a long process too.
Another way is to go to yard sales and get a Coleman camping stove and a big pot. You can usually get those dirt cheap at garage sales or auctions. That way, you can boil the skull outdoors. It really is a nasty smell for indoors anyway.
I know the set I used in this video for field dressing is pricey. Look at sales during the offseason for something to use instead. You don't have to get a new set. That stuff can come later when you get older and have more money. Most people start out with the bare-bones equipment. My first good knife was a Buck Folding 110. It took care of a lot of deer and antelope.
All good questions. Email anytime. I appreciate you writing in. Let me know what you end up doing. - Rick
Thank you for the kind invitation to email you....
ReplyDeleteDo you think you could use borax to preserve a deer hide to use as a fug?
i can flesh, dry and work, but needing a simple way to preserve as i dont have space to use the solution mix
No, not if you are going to use it as a rug. The Borax will dry the hide out very hard. It would be almost impossible to rehydrate to get soft. Hides really do need a tanning agent to get a soft tan and preserve it, especially for a rug. You don't have the room for the pickling agent, correct? If that is the case, I would look into Rinehart Tanning Crème. I used it years ago with decent results. It requires no pickling.
DeleteHope that answered your question. If not, let me know. - Rick
Hello Rick thank you for the great vidio it really helped and I was just wondering are there any videos or tips you would give for skinning a wild boar just got a fresh catch earlier today and my son is desperate to fielddres it pleas help
ReplyDeleteYou are sure welcome. I'm glad the video helped.
DeleteI'm assuming you kept it cool last night. Field dressing a wild boar is done virtually the same as deer. Take an extra knife or a sharpener. They have so much dirt on them they really dull the knives. - Rick
SIR,
ReplyDeleteYOU HAVE PRODUCED SOME OF THE BEST FOOTAGE THAT I HAVE EVER SEEN ON DEER PROCESSING, AND SLOW ENOUGH, AND WITH CLEARITY SO THAT IT CAN BE TAKEN IN BY A BEGINNER, OR SEASONED PROCESSOR. YOU HAVE PROVED THAT A 66 YO OLD LIFER HUNTER AND LIFER SOLDIER CAN STILL WAKE UP AND STILL LEARN SOMETHING NEW, AND USEFUL. I WAS HUNTING WITH MY FAMILY AT THE AGE OF 10, AND I AM STILL LEARNING. THANK YOU FOR THE TIME YOU SPENT ON A GREAT VIDEO.
I have received a lot of comments since I started putting these videos out there. I respond to them all. I've heard from many people from all sorts of walks of life. I have to say, your comments were absolutely awesome. It's why Pam and I went to this trouble; the taping, the editing, the posting, the questions, comments, etc., etc. In one nice paragraph, you made it all worthwhile. Thank you, sir, fellow Patriot. I really do appreciate your kindness and willingness to take the time to tell me it really was worth it. Pam and I hope you have a great life and are happy and healthy. God Bless America. - Rick & Pam
DeleteHi Rick, I am 47, started hunting 2 years ago, got 2 deer, first hide sent out & came back awesome, second hide did myself, totally because of your detailed videos !! I live in NH, hide frozen for 4 months, pickled in a large cooler with drain, tanned-24 hours & dried on a chain-link fence 3 x 5ft, washed in bathtub today. Question: my garage has been at 50 degrees F, all week, do you think the process worked at this temp? Sue
ReplyDeleteI would've left it in the tan for probably three days. It may not be tanned all the way through. If it isn't, just put it back in the tan for a couple more days. At the back of the neck, where the hide is thick, cut a little piece off so you can see how far the tan has gone into the leather. If it isn't the same color all the way through, that means it isn't tanned completely. Sounds like you really have a handle on all this. Good job. Thanks for writing in. Email anytime. - Rick
DeleteGoing to start fleshing a cowhide. Watching your videos. Still unsure of type of tools needed, can't find on your site.
ReplyDeleteBuckskin and Rawhide Supply Link on this Website: http://wyomingtaxidermy.blogspot.com/2012/11/buckskin-and-rawhide-supplies.html
DeleteHair on Hide Processing: http://wyomingtaxidermy.blogspot.com/2013/01/hair-on-tanning-supplies.html
List of All Videos Supplies I Use: http://wyomingtaxidermy.blogspot.com/search/label/SUPPLIES%20I%20USE
Hope this helps. - Rick