HAIR ON TANNING (Video 5 of 5)

HAIR ON TANNING (Video 4 of 5)

HAIR ON TANNING (Video 3 of 5)

HAIR ON TANNING (Video 2 of 5)

HAIR ON Animal Hide Tanning - Supplies I Use

This is a list of Supplies I used in this Video "HAIR ON Animal Hide Tanning", in the Field and in my Shop.   Some items have Pictures.  The Others have Links to the Item so you can look at them easily.  



I use the Krowtann "Whitetail Deer Formula" Non-Pickle Tanning Process.   Relatively Easy to Use with Nice Results.   Order Through VanDykes Taxidermy Supplies.   1-800-279-7985 Item No. KWT200


There are Quite a Variety of Fleshing Knives.    I Prefer the 16".



CLICK HERE FOR A VARIETY OF FLESHING KNIVES


I use this "Birds Beak" Knife around the shop all the time.  It's a very useful Knife.  Knife is Scary Sharp.   Holds an Edge well too.




This is the MOST IMPORTANT STEP in the Pickling Process; Checking YOUR pH LEVEL and Making Necessary Adjustments.   Follow the Instructions in my Video.    If you don't Follow the Instructions for pH Fluctuations, your Hide will not turn out.   I cannot Stress this to you Enough.



CLICK HERE FOR MORE PH STRIP CHOICES


Citric, Safety or Muratic Acid used for Pickling.    I DO NOT Recommend using Muratic Acid as it is Very Dangerous. Safety Precautions and Protection has to be used in its Handling.    I DO Recommend Citric or Safety Acid for Pickling pH Adjustment.   Baking Soda for Neutralizing.



CLICK HERE FOR ADDITIONAL CITRIC OR SAFETY ACID CHOICES

CLICK HERE FOR BAKING SODA CHOICES


I Don't Use Vinyl Gloves.   They Don't Stretch as Well, and the Sensitivity just isn't there.   I Use and Recommend Nitrile Exam Gloves.

CHOICES OF NITRILE GLOVES

But, if you Prefer them, CLICK HERE FOR A VARIETY OF VINYL GLOVES

Or, if you are Allergic to Latex; CLICK HERE FOR LATEX-FREE GLOVES


I always keep my Knives Sharp.   Knife Sharpeners I use and like these.



CLICK HERE FOR A VARIETY OF KNIFE SHARPENERS


I also have a Couple of Electric Knife Sharpeners. 

CLICK HERE FOR ADDITIONAL ELECTRIC KNIFE SHARPENERS


Table Salt, Non-Iodized is Cheaper.    I Buy Salt in Bulk Bags from a Local Feed Store.   Check Your Local Farm or Feed Stores for Best Deals.

CLICK HERE FOR MORE NON-IODIZED SALT CHOICES


Artificial Sinew



CLICK HERE FOR MORE VARIETY AND PRICES ON ARTIFICIAL SINEW


Needles I use and Recommend



CLICK HERE FOR ADDITIONAL CURVED NEEDLES


For the Hide while Breaking


CLICK HERE FOR LEATHER HIDE CONDITIONERS


Heavy Duty Glue



CLICK HERE FOR MORE HEAVY DUTY GLUE CHOICES


6 " Bench Grinder and Wheel



I've Found that a Bench Grinder with Different Wheels is very useful in Taxidermy.

CLICK HERE FOR A VARIETY OF BENCH GRINDERS


I only use, and always Recommend, Dawn Dish Soap.   It Really does work best.

VARIETY OF SIZES AND PRICES OF DAWN SOAP







If you have any Questions, Please just email me anytime.    I respond to all Questions and Comments within 24 Hours.   Thank You. - Rick

HAIR ON TANNING (Video 1 of 5)

How to TAN your Animal HIDE (Wild Game, any Furbearing Animal) with the HAIR  ON.  Make Beautiful Soft Rugs, Wall Hangings, Displays, Clothing, whatever you want.  Step by Step Directions to do it yourself.   Video 1 Covers Fleshing your hide.

Supplies used in Videos are always listed under "Supplies I Use" posts.

How To Prepare Your Game Hide To Be Tanned - Written Narrative

HOW TO PREPARE YOUR HIDE TO BE TANNED


Customers have their hides tanned for many reasons. Some tanned with the hair on… some with the hair off. It’s all personal preference and what you’re planning to use it for.

Once you have tanned hides, you could have a coat made, or gloves, or knife sheaths. Many things. Most people who have their hides tanned with the hair on, want the animal’s hide made into a rug or wall hanging. We’ll teach you how to do all those things in subsequent articles. For now, we’re going to talk about preparation for tanning.

Once you have the hide entirely off the deer, we’re going to clean it up and make it look good. Take your sharp skinning knife and gently remove the bigger pieces of muscle, sinew, and fat. Be careful, you don’t want to puncture through the hide. Get all you think you can without the risk of cutting through the skin. If you’re unsure, leave it alone. But, it is best to clean as much off as possible.

Don’t wash off the hide with anything. Just simply try to get as much as the junk as you can.

Spread the hide out on the ground. Hair side down. Gently pull on any areas which are stuck to one another. The entire skin area has to be exposed. Unfold any folds of skin. Unstick anything stuck. Then, take a large container of salt and generously pour over the entire exposed skin. Salt every single inch. Don’t be skimpy. Be liberal. Now using your (rubber gloved) fingers, gently rub the salt into the entire hide. It’s very important to get the salt rubbed into every inch of this hide. It helps to get the blood out (blood will spoil your hide) and it is a great preservative. The salt will enable the hide to be transported to the tannery.

Contact the tannery of your choice. Actually, do this at any point prior to sending. Ask them what their requirements are for getting animals tanned. Follow their procedures. Each tannery is slightly different than the next.

Most tanneries want the hide almost dry so nothing is dripping or leaking. Shipping is less for a dry hide also.

Roll or fold up, package well and send.