Supplies Used in my "FOX & COYOTE - FURBEARING PREDATORY ANIMALS" Video Series
Trapping Furbearing Animal Series
This Bird's Beak Knife is what I use in Skinning with most of my Animals. It's a Very Useful and Handy Knife to have around the Shop. It is SCARY SHARP. I would not Recommend this Knife for Younger People.
Click Here for a Variety of Bird's Beak Knives
A Pair of Side Cutters, or a Pair of Good, Heavy Duty Scissors or Shears are Needed. You can Spend a Lot of Money on Quality, Heavy-Duty Scissors. Here's some which are Reasonably Priced and I Recommend:
Click here for a Variety of Scissors
Click here for More Choices of Side Cutters for Heavier Bone Cutting
For Delicate and Precise Detailed Cutting:
Click here for More Precision Type Scissors
I always keep my Knives Sharp. I have the Following Sharpeners in my Shop and Recommend:
Click here for a Variety of Knife Sharpeners
I also have a Couple Electric Knife Sharpeners. My Favorite Electric Sharpener is the Following:
Click here for Additional Electric Knife Sharpeners
I Don't Use Vinyl Gloves. They Don't Stretch as Well, and the Sensitivity just isn't there. I Use and Recommend the Following:
But, if you Prefer them, Click here for a Variety of Vinyl Gloves
Or, if you are Allergic to Latex; Click here for Latex-Free Gloves
Don't Waste your Money on a Plastic Tail Stripper. They don't hold up. Use a Metal One. Mine is made from Steel, but, I use it all the time. The Aluminum Strippers would work just fine for Occasional use.
Gambrels come in a Variety of Sizes and Weight Capacities for Different Game; ie, Larger, Stronger Gambrels for Larger Game like Deer, Smaller for Raccoon, Fox, etc. For the Smaller Game, you need Something along this Line:
Click here for More Gambrel Choices
Small Wire Brush to Rough up the Fat on the Hide:
Click here for Additional Wire Brush Selections
There are Quite a Variety of Fleshing Knives. I Prefer the 16" Listed here:
Click here for a Variety of Fleshing Knives
For Breaking Down Fat, Grease, Oils, I use Dawn Dish Washing Liquid. It Really does work Best.
Good Rasp and File Set for the Money:
Click here for a Greater Selection of Rasp & File Sets
I Prefer and Recommend Wooden Fur Stretchers. You can also make your own Wooden Stretchers. The Metal Stretchers can Over-Stretch and therefore Thin some Hides too much. Fur Buyers Prefer Skins to be Stretched on Wood. Below are a Couple Examples of the Metal Fur Stretchers.
Click Here for Additional Fur Stretchers
Nails I use to Attach your Hide to Stretching/Drying Board:
Click Here for Additional Small Finishing Nails
Table Salt, Non-Iodized is Cheaper. I Buy Salt in Bulk Bags from a Local Feed Store. Check Your Local Farm or Feed Stores for Best Deals.
Click here for more Salt Choices
This is the MOST IMPORTANT STEP in the Pickling Process; Checking your pH LEVEL and Making Necessary Adjustments. Follow the Instructions in my Video. If you don't Follow the Instructions for pH Fluctuations, your Hide will not turn out. I cannot Stress this to you Enough.
Click here for more pH Testing Strips
Citric, Safety or Muratic Acid used for Pickling. I DO NOT Recommend using Muratic Acid as it is Very Dangerous. Safety Precautions and Protection has to be used in its Handling. I DO Recommend Citric or Safety Acid for Pickling pH Adjustment. Baking Soda for Neutralizing.
Click here for Additional Citric or Safety Acid Choices
The Following Links will Direct You to Trapping Wild Game Supplies:
Click Here for Additional Trapping Supplies
Trapping Lures
Trapping Urine
Wild Game Traps
Trap Wax
Trap Dye
Trapping Supplies
Hi Rick i got a few questions iam a trapper and want to tan a few of my own hides hair on of course i was thinking of doing a coyote for my first one so as far as the pickling process goes i didnt quite catch your measurements as far as salt water and acid ratio ill also be using muriatic acid i also wanted to know how you tell when the pickling process is complete is there a way you can tell? thanks
ReplyDeleteHi Colton:
ReplyDeleteThe pickling mixture is: 1 pound of salt, 1/2 oz of Citric (safety) Acid per gallon of water. The hide stays in the pickle for 3 days. The pH level MUST be kept between 1 - 2 ALL THE TIME. I can't stress to you enough how important it is to keep the pH at that level. This is the part where hides spoil if you do not keep on top of that pH. Get the pH level to 1 - 2 before you put the hide into the pickle too. Keep it totally submerged and stirred. Even right after you put the hide in, it will change the pH. Get it back to the right levels right away. You HAVE to stir, move hide around, and keep on top of the pH for 3 days.
Good luck.
Rick
Colton:
ReplyDeleteAfter the 3 days of stirring, checking pH levels, adjusting the pH level back to 1 - 2, you'll then thoroughly rinse the hide in cool water. Then, follow the video instructions. If you have any questions, Colton, feel free to contact me.
- Rick
Hi Rick. This video came at the perfect time. My neighbor just killed a coyote that's been getting his sheep at night. I had just watched your video and asked him if I could have it to try my hand at tanning the pelt, hair on of course. All of your instructions are very clear and I'm pretty sure I can follow them and really appreciate the details you included on the products you use. The only thing I didn't catch or see on the Supplies I Use list is the tanning cream. What do you use?
ReplyDeleteThanks for all the video's. My younger boys and I love watching them. They definitely wanted to get their hands dirty during the skinning process. It was great!
Jeremy:
ReplyDeleteThanks for the heads up on the info lacking in Supplies I Use listing. I'll add that asap.
For a coyote, I would recommend McKenzie Tanning Cream. I've always had good luck with it and it's reasonably priced.
I totally enjoyed your comments too. I try my best to have a family-friendly site so all can learn, if they need to.
Good luck to you and thank you again. - Rick
hi richard,love your stuff, i had a question,no one seems to ever mention this on any animal,i had just finished skinning a coyote,is it safe to wrap up as is and put in the freezer for a later date ? if so do i treat it with some kind of preservative?is it safe the way it is? thank you chris
ReplyDeleteChris:
DeleteSimply roll the coyote up, put in a plastic bag, squeeze it to get all the air out of the bag and coyote's hair. Otherwise, the trapped air in the hair will cause it not to freeze for a couple of days. Put in your freezer. Should be good for months this way.
Or,
If you have a bigger freezer, fold the coyote in half, flesh side in and lay it in the freezer flat.
Good question.
- Rick
Chris:
DeleteI almost forgot... do NOT salt beforehand. Salt will prevent the skin from freezing. - Rick
Also, on the video I can see you entering the ear tool between the cartilage and the skin, but never see you actually remove the cartilage. The cartilage from the ear would come out after separation, correct?
ReplyDeleteI'm putting two links below which will take you to a site that sells the Ear Turning Tools. Either one would work well.
DeleteThe skin on the ear is attached to the cartilage on both sides. I'm only taking the cartilage off one side, the back side of the ear. You can take it out, but, it's a different process. Most people make a mess out of taking it all out as the inside skin is so thin. - Rick
http://www.mckenziesp.com/EOTP-P11986.aspx
http://www.mckenziesp.com/T7190-P18436.aspx