This Website is Dedicated to the Serious Hunter, Fisherman, Survivalist, Do-It-Yourself Taxidermist, Wildlife Enthusiast and Their Game. I am a Taxidermist that Enjoys Everything about the Outdoors. You’ll Learn Taxidermy, Filleting Fish, Field Dressing, Fleshing, Skinning, Butchering, Hide Preparation, Flint Knapping Arrowheads, Primitive Arrows, Off-The-Grid, Survivalist Skills, Prepper Needs, Self-Sufficiency and Much More. This is a Work-In-Progress, so Check Back for Additions.
Friday, June 28, 2013
SQUIRREL Taxidermy Supplies
These Supplies are Used in my "HOW TO TAXIDERMY A SQUIRREL" Video
This Bird's Beak Knife is what I use in Skinning with most of my Animals. It is SCARY SHARP. I would NOT Recommend this Knife for Younger People.
For Younger People, I would Recommend a Good Pocket Knife that's Small and Easy to Use. Something Like This:
Cutting the Tail and Legs. Just use a Pair of Side Cutters, or a Pair of Good, Heavy Duty Scissors or Shears. You can Spend a Lot of Money on These, but, I Wouldn't. Here's Some that I Would Use.
Or for Variety Click Here for Poultry Shears
I Bought my Knife Sharpener at Auction. Always Check Sales and Auctions for Supplies. But, here are a Couple I Would Recommend and Use.
This Type of Glove Provides Better Sensitivity and Stretches Well.
Don't get a Plastic Tail Stripper. Use a Metal One.
Small Wire Brush to Rough up the Fat on the Hide.
Improvise for a Fleshing Tool and Board. A Kitchen Spoon is Perfect for Fleshing a Squirrel.
I Recommend Regular Potter's Clay for Squirrels too. It's more Forgiving. But, I have also Listed Apoxie Sculpt here as I do use it.
For Breaking Down Fat, Grease, Oils. I Primarily use Dawn Dishwashing Liquid. It Really Does Work Best. Have also used Simple Green and Recommend it also.
Borax is Used as a Dry Preservative.
This Looks like a Pretty Decent Rasp and File Set for the Money. You'll use These from Time to Time.
You'll Need a Good Glue, like Super Glue, Loctite, and/or Hot Glue Gun.
Not Required for Squirrel and Other Small Animal Taxidermy. But, I do use it in This Video, so, I'm Listing it.
Straight Pins for Lighter Uses and Heavier T-Pins for Holding Arms, Legs, etc., in Position.
I get my Galvanized Wire at a Local Farm Store. In this Video, I am using Straight Wire. You can, however, use the Wire that comes in a Roll. The Wire Gauge to use Depends on the Animal, the Size of the Animal and the Body Part. The Smaller the Animal, the Higher the Gauge of Wire. For the Squirrel Tail, Legs, and Feet, I use either 12ga or 14ga Galvanized wire.
You'll Find a Simple Stapler Useful.
No Need to Spend a lot of Money on a Hair Dryer.
Needles for Stitching your Squirrel. Here's a Decent Assortment, plus, a Curved one.
For Squirrels, I use Either Brown or Black, Heavy Duty Thread. You can also use Regular Thread if you Double it.
Forms, Eyes, Fleshing Ball and Wheel, are Available at Van Dykes Taxidermy Supply. www.vandykestaxidermy.com or 1-800-279-7985.
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Rick, I was trying to get on the deer post and leave a comment but I was unsuccessful so I posted here. After a three day hunt following axis tracks and scrapes I finally shot one on July 1st. Since then I have tried to follow your instructions. Time and work got in the way. I really would like to keep this hide and I have put in lots of work on it. I would like to email you for further instructions if possible.
ReplyDeleteI have fleshed (that was hard), salted, pickled, and noticed a little slippage (not much) but I panicked and salted again this time on a wooden frame. Today I scrapped the salt off and was left with a suede like skin. Feels very soft and the hair is staying on. I started breaking the tail a bit and it seems to to be stretching and becoming nice and no hair is falling out. I have not tanned it yet. I have alum and salt and some McKenzie leather oil here. The hide is stiff but flexible. Should I tan the dry then break or can I just start to break it. Anything helps. Thanks for your website. And even though this one may not workout my next one will.
Eric Allen
Thanks for your question. I am concerned as to why you had a problem posting a question on the deer hide videos. Would you be so kind as to tell me what your experience was? If it's a problem, I need to fix it. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteAnswer to your question; You do have to tan it before you break it.
Breaking a hide IS a TON of work, isn't it? Congrats on your deer. Let me know how it goes. Good Luck.
- Rick
Eric: One more thing. As long as there's no slippage, you should be able to save this hide.
ReplyDeleteHi Rick. I've been tanning my deer hides and other people's for the past 3 years now. Just got into taxidermy and I've found several tips from your videos so thank you very much! I've been picking up roadkill because I'm desperate but just started trapping this year also. So my question is what type of tan should i use to tan a raccoon or a larger animal like bobcat or fox. Can I still use a dry preservative or is another wet tan a better option?
ReplyDeleteOn the fox or bobcat, you can use a dry tan if you want to. On the coon, I'd probably use the Krowtann. The reason is the fox and bobcat are thin-skinned and work well with the dry tan. The coon are thicker skinned and greasier. When you're using the dry tan, get all the brushing done before it starts to dry. Get everything in place before then. Don't touch while drying. Roadkill is an excellent way to get some practice. I recommend it to others all the time. Good luck. Rick
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