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Wednesday, December 30, 2009
Whitetail Deer Shoulder Mount Taxidermy VIDEO 16 of 16
Hello Rick, Great videos! I'm 32 and looking to get into the business of taxidermy. Any suggestions? Should I go to a school? Do you recommend any or can a guy pick up on it after a few years. Please email me if you have any input at venjohn777@yahoo.com. Thanks Rick.
Schooling is one choice. There's a few really good schools around. I couldn't afford the schooling, so, I self-taught. Start on one of your animals. Small like a squirrel. Use reference photos. Great photos in hunting magazines. Take your time and just practice. Don't rush yourself and certainly don't expect too much of yourself. It's a continuous learning experience. I learn new things all the time. You'll learn from your mistakes. Watch videos. Research ideas on the internet. I find the best supplies come from McKenzies Taxidermy, WASCO, and Rhinehart. Reasonable prices too. There's a great taxidermy website; taxidermy.net, where you can learn alot, ask questions. Lot of professional taxidermists on that. Keep in mind, once you feel good enough about your work to do it for customers, don't expect experienced taxidermist prices. Just charge a fair and decent price for your work. You can adjust it with experience and animals. Also, you'll need a taxidermist license once you start doing work for customers. Also, feel free to contact me anytime. Thanks for the compliments. - Rick
Does the European Mount video that you can purchase on the website go over everything to do a normal whitetail shoulder mount? My email address is Sweeney187@aol.com
Sweeney187: No it doesn't. There's only one subject on that DVD and it's strictly how to do a European Mount. Did you have some questions on deer mounts? Ask away... - Rick
Rick, I want to know do you have more than one viedo. If so what are they, how much and how do i get them. I am wanting viedos that go from skinning out a deer to finished mount. I have watched your posts on youtube and really like them, easy for me to understand and want a set of my own. you can e-mail me at jboyhawk32@aol.com . Thank you for your time.
Rick Do you have videos that cover skinning out your deer to finished mount? I have watched your post on here and would like a copy for my self, you do a really good job of explaining and understand the fact of working on a budget. Anyway if there is a way i can purchase them please let me know. You can e-mail me at jboyhawk32@aol.com . Thanks
Jim: Thanks for the compliments. I have a couple of videos for sale on this Google site. Just go to the home page, a bit down on the right hand side. I put the deer head mount video for free on both sites. I don't have it on a disc for sale. Although, that is a good idea. For anyone who wants it, not in segments. Check out the videos; free and for sale. Email me if you have any questions. Thanks again. Rick
Jim: Look at the videos "Preparing your deer cape for taxidermy" videos 1 through 5. They're free. Then, go to "Whitetail shoulder mount taxidermy" videos 1 through 15. They're free also. I don't have them all together on a video for sale. Thought Free would be better for people needing the help. Maybe I should put them all together for a video for sale, too. Thanks again. Rick
Hi Rick I was thinking about trying to do a whitetail shoulder mount and was wondering if you have any suggestions on what i should use. I see alot of kits that include everything and look pretty straight forward or do you think I should buy everything separate? Also, who would you recommend for these supplies? Thanks alot miller21635@gmail.com
Miller21635: If you don't have any supplies that you could use, you may be better off getting a kit. It all depends what comes in the kit you're looking at. Make sure you get the right size form with the kit, or very close to it. Plus, follow their directions closely. If you're only going to try it to see if you like it, I'd say the kit again would be best. If you like it, or think you may do more, then, go with individual tools, paints, forms, etc. I buy all my supplies through VanDykes or McKenzie Taxidermy Supplies. However, Rhinehart Taxidermy has forms with pre-set eyes which are a big help for the beginner. Email if you need more info. I'd be happy to help. - Rick
Rick Thanks for the info, I think i'm gonna go with the Sallie Dahmes kit from Wasco supply. If all works out well i will follow your suggestion of individual tools, paints, forms etc. I will keep you posted on how it going. Thanks for helping out and thanks for the great videos, they are a great help. Eric
Eric: Thanks for all the great compliments. They're sure appreciated! I order things from WASCO from time to time. It just seems they're slower than others. Follow the directions and good luck. Let me know how it goes! - Rick
Rick One question I forgot to ask you the other day, after I flesh and salt the hide how long can I keep it before I tan it? should i freeze it or will it be fine sitting (after salt)? thanks eric
Eric: If it's not going to be for too long, I'd put it in the freezer. Since it has salt on it, it will not entirely freeze, but, will buy you time to get the supplies. If you leave it out and wait, you'll have to re-hydrate the hide before using it. Thanks. - Rick
hey rick, i really appreciat you taking time to make these videos to help get people into the great outdoors, youve really been a big help to me, i have a question about salting the hide and tanning, how do you keep your hide from getting stiff after salting, and also the tanning cream you use in your video, is that all there is to tanning a hide?
Jesse: Are you mounting a head? or just tanning a hide? If you're tanning a hide for a rug or wall hanging, do the following: If you leave the salt on too long, it'll get stiff as a board. All you want to do by salting it is to get some of the moisture out of the hide. What salting will do is set the hide up for absorbing the tanning solution. You need to "break" the hide after you've rinsed the tanning solution off. This is what makes it soft. As it's drying, apply some softening oil, this will also help. If for a mount; do above, but, you don't have to break the hide. Just rinse off the tanning solution and you're ready to mount. This is what is called a "wet tan" that most people use for most mounts. Thanks for all the nice words, I appreciate them. Email anytime. Good luck. - Rick
thanks for getting back to me so quick, im wanting to get into taxidermy and tanning, last year is the first time I ever really attempted annything like that, i really had no clue and dont know anyone who does this kind of thing, so i just tried to wing it, i scraped my hide pretty good, just wanting to make a rug or something, then i salted the crap out of it, I probly let it set way too long, its stiff as a board, but i really dont know what im doing, so i just worked it for a while and rubbed it down with mink oil, most people would laugh at it i guess but im proud, i just tacked it on the wall in my livin room but next season im hoping to give it another shot and maybe even try mounting something.
Jesse: Sounds like you had a good start. As long as you're happy with it, that's all that counts. Next year, get with me a bit earlier and we can make the next hide softer. The way to soften those hides that are salted hard is to soak it in salty, cool water overnight. One cup of salt per gal of water. Go to a farm supply store, you can buy a 50 lb bag of salt for less than $5. In the morning, the hide will be pretty relaxed. Might take a little more than a day, but, you should be able to tan it from that step on. Any questions, just email anytime. I usually respond in one to two days. Good luck. - Rick
well rick, looks like season is here again. I would like to make a blanket or a rug or something out of a deer hide this year, i think ill try and get that down before i try to mount anything, ill hopefully have plenty of hides for trial and error, so what do you suggest for making a soft hide with the fur on? is there maybe some kind of kit i could buy? or is there something else? thanks a bunch and God Bless!
Jesse: Hi again! Good to hear from you. You'll have to tan and break the hide to get a soft hide. It's a lot of work, but, can be done. If you want to go the kit route, VanDykes or McKenzie's sell them. Each one will do one or two hides. Email with any questions. - Rick
Hey rick this is Chris again. I'm not real good with computers so that's probably why I had trouble trying to contact you. I have a few questions on mounting a whitetail. After fleshing, salting and using the chemical tan for 4-6 hrs is the cape then ready to mount after rinsing the chemicals off? How long can I store the moist cape in the fridge after tanning? I was also wondering if u could make a video in detail on how to stitch or sew the cape up. I am starting with a whitetail and think I can do a decent job thanks to your help and videos. Thanks for your time. Chris
Chris: 4 to 6 hours doesn't sound like a lot of time to me. What are you using for tanning? Is that what the instructions say? My tans usually stay on for 24 hrs. Let me know. Yes, you can store them for a day or two in the frig. Any longer than that, I would freeze it. Did you check the series on shoulder mount taxidermy for stitching? I thought I had covered that. If not, sure. I think I can probably tape it tomorrow. I'm about ready for one to be at that stage. Answer my questions when you get a second, please. Thanks. Rick
Hey Rick this is chris again, i just mounted my first animal thanks to your videos it looks really good so far but has just started drying. i was wondering if its possible to put to many pins in? i did all the detail with cardboard and pins but i also pinned around the eyes and mouth to hopefully stop it from pulling out. i also put them in other places that i was worried about drumming? is this ok or does the hide need some room to stretch and move during drying? please let me know as soon as you get a chance. I'm going on the second day of drying. thanks so much for all the help. chris
Chris: You don't want your hide to move much while drying. Don't worry about the amount of pins. After awhile, you'll learn how to put pins and restrict the drying in the most sensitive areas, ie, eyes, mouth, nose. Thanks for compliments. Rick
Rick Charlie here again, I have a 35 yr old mount we call it the smiling deer with a great big grin and they done a bad job on the whole mount I did not know quite as much then. I can't afford to pay to have it remounted so I will be doing it myself. Please keep up the good work.
Is it a bigger deer? It's usually more money the bigger the deer is. You'll probably need to get a new form. It's easier to get a cape and then the form to match. You may be able to use the same eyes. Good luck. - Rick
More importantly would be to match your antler base to the new cape. Measure right underneath the antler base. Put a string around there to measure. Ask for a cape that's fairly close to that. - Rick
Hi Rick, I have tried to get into Taxidermy.net without any success. I have registered, recievd an email and tried to log in and this has been several times. All I get is that my " email needs validated" after several attempts and since I can't get in to communicate I can't get any help if you could possibly contact someone by email or whatever to tell them my problem. I would appreciate any help.
Still not totally understanding your instruction to measure underneath the antler base? My email address is crm2431@hotmail.com.
Try it again later, Charlie. I tried to get on their site to see what was going on. It said my password was invalid. I do know they have problems with their site from time to time. I've found if you wait a day or so, or try a different time, it works fine. Let me know if you try at different times and days and still have the problem.
About the antler base. Take a string and wrap it around the base of one antler. Take that string and measure the distance of the string with a ruler or measuring tape. It should run anywhere from 4" to 8" around. You need to measure right below the pedicle (where the base of the antler meets the skull). When choosing a cape to re-mount, you'll need to make sure the antler base on the hide is as close to the measurement you got on your deer head. That's what I look for when looking for a cape. Is that clearer?
I would call it a medium deer, base = 5 1/4,,,,, 10 pts Oklahoma count ,,,, weight orig 147 pounds yes much clearer. I thank you a lot for your patience and help. Charlie Rogers
You're certainly welcome, Charlie. Thanks for the info. The reason I was asking is that I have a cape here and was wondering if it may fit. But, it came off a smaller deer. The bases were only 4" round.
Were you able to get on taxidermy.net yet? I had to sign up new all over again; new name and password. When they sent you the Verification email, did you follow the directions on it? Just wondering if that was maybe the problem. - Rick
I was able to get on the site yesterday and today. Both without signing in and with. They had several deer capes which would've worked out for you, I believe. But, they were going fast. I also checked eBay. There were a couple on there, but, around $100. If you can wait a bit, deer season is opening up in most places in October. You'll find more capes then and maybe cheaper. After season opens, think about going to a deer processing place and ask them for capes. - Rick
Thanks for the advice, I will take it into consideration definitely. A processor won't have a mature buck cape will they????? I would still like to get into that forum, what do you suggest? Who do you trust on the forum and ebay? Charlie ( I really appreciate your guidance)
Trust. That's a tough one. On the taxidermy site, check out the person's listing and see how many listings he's had in the past. If he's a regular, my guess would be he might be able to be trusted. If you find a cape you want, you can also post a question on the forum to see if anybody knows him to be reputable. They'll answer that question quickly. On eBay, everyone has a rating. It states how many transactions they have had and they are scored on each one. If someone has done something bad, it'll be indicated by negative feedback. If they are reputable, that seller will have positive feedback. You can read it all. As far as the processor; yes, absolutely... they get many mature buck capes. So, that's what you're going to find the most capes for. If I were you, though, I'd go to the processor ahead of time and tell them exactly what you are looking for. That way, they will get you just the right one and give you a call right away. Better talk price ahead of time too. There's lots of processors out there. Keep that in mind when they shoot you a price. At this point, I really have no clue at all why you haven't been able to get on to the taxidermy website. It should be running smooth for you by now, one way or the other. But, if you can wait, I'd suggest the processor route. There will be a lot to be gotten, and unless you're rich, the price is closer to being right. I get my extra capes from my local processor. Let me know what you end up doing. Good luck. Rick
I called a tanner in North Carolina I had heard he might have a WT cape he said he didn't have any and if he did he wouldn't sell me one because it wouldn't be the same as an Oklahoma cape. I don't think there is much difference is there? I mean a WT is a WT. I mean mine that I have now is a typical WT with a big white patch under the throat. And so what if I want a darker or lighter cape. Am I wrong about all this? Also going to a processor around here the cape is more than likely going to be scalped where they took the rack off the head unless I use a doe cape. I hope I am not a nuisance! Charlie
You're thinking is exactly right on the money, Charlie. I'm sorry you ran into such a jerk at the tannery. Most people in this world are nice, but, you'll run into a jerk now and again.
Go to a deer processor. They are the ones who actually butcher the deer. If you can, go ahead of season so they can be looking for one for you. If you tell the processor/butcher that you are looking for a "buck cape to be used for taxidermy", they will be very careful when skinning. They really know what they are doing and will not scalp it. They usually do an excellent job at skinning. Make sure you are clear when talking to him/her... say "I need a nice buck cape to be used for taxidermy. Not a little one". If you want it to be dark, or light, or medium... tell them that too. NEVER use a doe cape on a buck. Some will tell you they'll work. I've heard that through the years too. BUT, they do NOT work. They look like heck. If you really think that processors/butchers in your area are not going to do a good job skinning, go to a different one. Maybe your local ones are too small?
Keep in mind, it's e-a-s-y money for the processor. They usually just skin the deer and toss the hide, or sell for next to nothing to a buyer. So, by you walking in their door and wanting to give them good money for one, they will (should) be grateful to be able to make more money from it.
As far as the whitetail deer being different in North Carolina and Oklahoma, that tanner, again, was wrong. Except for subspecies, a whitetail is a whitetail is a whitetail. There's color variations on deer everywhere. Like in Oklahoma, you can get all sorts of colors. By subspecies, I'm speaking about deer like from the Florida Keyes, much smaller styles.
Also, if you are in a hurry to do this, there is one place I would trust to get an already-tanned deerskin for taxidermy. Their name is Moyle Mink and Tannery in Idaho. I use them and definitely trust them. They may have what you are looking for. Here's the link to their phone number and website:
http://www.moytown.com/company.html#contact
Don't worry about your questions to me, Charlie. I started this forum to try to help people where I can. So, I enjoy it.
Keep me in the loop. I know the deer is from Oklahoma, is that where you reside? There's some huge deer in Oklahoma.
Hi Rick Been a while sinced we talked, but I have been attending Rick University of Taxidermy, lol. The last we spoke you advised me to go to the local processors for capes I needed for my remounts, however they aren't to cooperative, they say in Oklahoma it is against the law to sell a cape or buy one. So I am resorting to different hunters to save me a hide, head and all to come up with the cape I need. I have another question, I have a problem following the products you recommend, just which knife are you using on this video to skin out the face? Any more ideas on obtaining a cape? Charlie Good hunting!
Hi Charlie. I don't know Oklahoma's laws, but, I would assume the processor knows his stuff. So, that avenue is out. Did you ever get on Taxidermy . Net website? Did you check out eBay? You'd better check into the laws about buying one from a friend. Maybe he/she would have to "gift" it to you. You certainly don't want to violate any laws. That might just be the best route to go, your friends that don't want their capes.
Tell me what problems are you having getting to the products on the website? Seriously, I am interested. I am really not computer savvy and would appreciate hearing the truth from someone about this site. I think it just needs to be completely redone, but, am not going to pay someone to do it.
I'm enclosing, below, the link to the knife I use for tons of things around the shop, including skinning. It's an invaluable tool for me. It's routed through my site, so, I'll make a couple of pennies on purchases. haha.
I look forward to your critique of my site. I've asked others before, but, would really appreciate some good old fashioned honesty about it.
- Rick (Charlie, you might have to copy and paste this link into the browser window to go to it. I'm not sure how this will work.) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VYL5TU/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000VYL5TU&linkCode=as2&tag=evewiltaxflid-20
Okay I was right about which knife it was and I assume this knife holds an edge real well. The problem with the website may be a Charlie problem, but I tend to get lost somewhat. Maybe a link by itself to materials you recommend would help clarify. I can buy a cape off ebay or taxidermy.net buy I am not even sure here in Oklahoma if that is legal? I have tried putting the word out to all my hunter friends. I went to Lake Michigan to visit friends and I thought I would bring back a Walleye to practice on, instead I caught 15 lb King Salmon and brought it back. Looks like I will get a workout in the field of fish taxidermy. Charlie
Ok. Sounds good. I'll have to review the website and change things up. Thanks for the tip.
I can't help you with the laws in Oklahoma, but, would suggest you call a Natural Resource Official in your area. They'd be the best ones to ask about the cape situation. That way, you'll be legal, no matter what.
That salmon you got is a big fish to start out on. Make sure that head cavity is absolutely clean as a whistle. Very clean. Maybe even think about getting an artificial head. It is VERY hard to get salmon and trout's heads cleaned out well. The oil will leak out and get yellow around the head if it isn't cleaned out really well. Make sure you get a good form that fits also. It'll make this big task just a bit easier on you.
Also Rick, I been driving around Lake Tenkiller looking for the foam chunks of the type like you were using so far no luck. Any ideas where to get them? Charlie
I've gone fishing in Oklahoma through the years. I'd suggest you go to some of the marinas and ask them. They may have a pile of them that washed up or when they replaced their docks. - Rick
Sorry I go through periods of questions. Do you have the airbrush advertised here on your website advertised by Amazon or the one advertised by Van Dykes and what is the difference other than price??? Charlie
Hi Charlie. I'm attaching a link below to an article in this website. It's under Pheasant Taxidermy Tips, but, it explains my airbrush, why I use it and tips. May be helpful to you. - Rick http://wyomingtaxidermy.blogspot.com/search/label/PHEASANT%20TAXIDERMY
Hey Rick Thanks for the link that was a really good help. So much so I went ahead and bought the airbrush system, I already had a small compressor. Now I can practice along before tackling the King Salmon. I am waiting for a body and head from Research Mannikins. By the way I had a piece of foam given to me yesterday 4'x4'x12". Thanks for everything Charlie
Hi Rick What about fleshing your deer cape real well and using a Dry Perservative then mounting it, instead of sending it off for 6 months to a year, would that not work? Charlie
Yes, it does work. Make sure you flesh it really well & thin around the eyes, forehead, etc., as they'll shrink a lot. Get everything set into place correctly, as you don't want to mess with it while it's drying. The hair needs a couple of weeks to lock into place. - Rick
Why don't more of them do it this way? What about some of the proceses in Van Dykes such as Krowtan 2000 are they any good? I'm 60 yrs old it doesn't have to stay looking good too long 30 yrs. It looks like from these catalogs this taxidermy is a going business. So Rick when you get to Tahlequah, I will take you to Katfish Kitchen for a good fish dinner.
Charlie: Here's a link to some of the supplies i use for deer taxidermy. Notice one of the supplies is Krowtann: http://wyomingtaxidermy.blogspot.com/2010/09/preparing-your-deer-cape-for-taxidermy.html
Also, did you see this series? http://wyomingtaxidermy.blogspot.com/2008/12/how-to-prepare-and-tan-your-deer-cape.html
That video series might help you too. Katfish Kitchen sounds great to me! Rick
Sorry for what, Charlie? I just thought you'd like that other series too. Let me know, as always, if you have any suggestions. I listen to them. Take care. - Rick
Hey Rick hope things are going well for you and you have gotten a world record buck by now,,, Our gun season starts Saturday and I have put the word out everywhere that I need a cape or 2. Now I hate to keep going over stuff but is it correct if I don't have time for a week or 2 to split the lips and turn the eyes and flesh it, I can; salt it down and roll it up and freeze it till later, correct ? Charlie (thank you for your patience)
No world record buck for me. Earlier this week I had my right knee replaced. So, I'm pretty laid up right now. You shouldn't have any problem getting your cape(s) if you let others know. Let me know if you get one. No, don't salt it. The hide will not freeze entirely then, you'll be living on borrowed time. Just fold the cape and put in the freezer. It'll be fine. Make sure you check the cape before you put it in the freezer to make sure it's in good shape. Pull on the hair to make sure it's not slipping. If it's slipping, you might as well just throw away. Some can be saved, some can't. You should at least rough flesh it before freezing though. Good luck. Let me know how it goes. - Rick
Sorry about your knee, my mother had one done last year its better than ever. Myself I am on borrowed time with my right one. Will follow your directions on the cape when I get it. The king salmon is drying right now, I have a replacement head for it. I had some shrinkage at the tail head, it has been drying almost 3 weeks now. Will be praying for a speedy recovery. Charlie
Thanks, Charlie. I know I've heard good things about a new knee. Just getting through the surgery recoup is difficult though. Gives me a new appreciation for those who went through it. You maybe need to think about getting your knee done too. Sounds like the salmon is coming along. Let me know how it goes. Thank you for praying for me. Take care. - Rick
Hello Rick,
ReplyDeleteGreat videos! I'm 32 and looking to get into the business of taxidermy. Any suggestions? Should I go to a school? Do you recommend any or can a guy pick up on it after a few years. Please email me if you have any input at venjohn777@yahoo.com. Thanks Rick.
Schooling is one choice. There's a few really good schools around. I couldn't afford the schooling, so, I self-taught. Start on one of your animals. Small like a squirrel. Use reference photos. Great photos in hunting magazines. Take your time and just practice. Don't rush yourself and certainly don't expect too much of yourself. It's a continuous learning experience. I learn new things all the time. You'll learn from your mistakes. Watch videos. Research ideas on the internet. I find the best supplies come from McKenzies Taxidermy, WASCO, and Rhinehart. Reasonable prices too. There's a great taxidermy website; taxidermy.net, where you can learn alot, ask questions. Lot of professional taxidermists on that. Keep in mind, once you feel good enough about your work to do it for customers, don't expect experienced taxidermist prices. Just charge a fair and decent price for your work. You can adjust it with experience and animals. Also, you'll need a taxidermist license once you start doing work for customers. Also, feel free to contact me anytime. Thanks for the compliments. - Rick
ReplyDeleteDoes the European Mount video that you can purchase on the website go over everything to do a normal whitetail shoulder mount? My email address is Sweeney187@aol.com
ReplyDeleteSweeney187:
ReplyDeleteNo it doesn't. There's only one subject on that DVD and it's strictly how to do a European Mount.
Did you have some questions on deer mounts? Ask away...
- Rick
Rick,
ReplyDeleteI want to know do you have more than one viedo. If so what are they, how much and how do i get them. I am wanting viedos that go from skinning out a deer to finished mount. I have watched your posts on youtube and really like them, easy for me to understand and want a set of my own. you can e-mail me at jboyhawk32@aol.com . Thank you for your time.
Rick
ReplyDeleteDo you have videos that cover skinning out your deer to finished mount? I have watched your post on here and would like a copy for my self, you do a really good job of explaining and understand the fact of working on a budget. Anyway if there is a way i can purchase them please let me know. You can e-mail me at jboyhawk32@aol.com . Thanks
Jim:
ReplyDeleteThanks for the compliments. I have a couple of videos for sale on this Google site. Just go to the home page, a bit down on the right hand side. I put the deer head mount video for free on both sites. I don't have it on a disc for sale. Although, that is a good idea. For anyone who wants it, not in segments. Check out the videos; free and for sale. Email me if you have any questions. Thanks again. Rick
Jim:
ReplyDeleteLook at the videos "Preparing your deer cape for taxidermy" videos 1 through 5. They're free. Then, go to "Whitetail shoulder mount taxidermy" videos 1 through 15. They're free also. I don't have them all together on a video for sale. Thought Free would be better for people needing the help. Maybe I should put them all together for a video for sale, too. Thanks again. Rick
Hi Rick
ReplyDeleteI was thinking about trying to do a whitetail shoulder mount and was wondering if you have any suggestions on what i should use. I see alot of kits that include everything and look pretty straight forward or do you think I should buy everything separate? Also, who would you recommend for these supplies?
Thanks alot
miller21635@gmail.com
Miller21635:
ReplyDeleteIf you don't have any supplies that you could use, you may be better off getting a kit. It all depends what comes in the kit you're looking at. Make sure you get the right size form with the kit, or very close to it. Plus, follow their directions closely. If you're only going to try it to see if you like it, I'd say the kit again would be best. If you like it, or think you may do more, then, go with individual tools, paints, forms, etc. I buy all my supplies through VanDykes or McKenzie Taxidermy Supplies. However, Rhinehart Taxidermy has forms with pre-set eyes which are a big help for the beginner. Email if you need more info. I'd be happy to help. - Rick
Rick
ReplyDeleteThanks for the info, I think i'm gonna go with the Sallie Dahmes kit from Wasco supply. If all works out well i will follow your suggestion of individual tools, paints, forms etc. I will keep you posted on how it going. Thanks for helping out and thanks for the great videos, they are a great help. Eric
miller21635@gmail.com
Eric:
ReplyDeleteThanks for all the great compliments. They're sure appreciated! I order things from WASCO from time to time. It just seems they're slower than others. Follow the directions and good luck. Let me know how it goes! - Rick
Rick
ReplyDeleteOne question I forgot to ask you the other day, after I flesh and salt the
hide how long can I keep it before I tan it? should i freeze it or will it be fine sitting (after salt)?
thanks
eric
miller21635@gmail.com
Eric:
ReplyDeleteIf it's not going to be for too long, I'd put it in the freezer. Since it has salt on it, it will not entirely freeze, but, will buy you time to get the supplies. If you leave it out and wait, you'll have to re-hydrate the hide before using it. Thanks. - Rick
hey rick, i really appreciat you taking time to make these videos to help get people into the great outdoors, youve really been a big help to me, i have a question about salting the hide and tanning, how do you keep your hide from getting stiff after salting, and also the tanning cream you use in your video, is that all there is to tanning a hide?
ReplyDeleteJesse:
ReplyDeleteAre you mounting a head? or just tanning a hide? If you're tanning a hide for a rug or wall hanging, do the following:
If you leave the salt on too long, it'll get stiff as a board. All you want to do by salting it is to get some of the moisture out of the hide. What salting will do is set the hide up for absorbing the tanning solution.
You need to "break" the hide after you've rinsed the tanning solution off. This is what makes it soft. As it's drying, apply some softening oil, this will also help.
If for a mount; do above, but, you don't have to break the hide. Just rinse off the tanning solution and you're ready to mount.
This is what is called a "wet tan" that most people use for most mounts.
Thanks for all the nice words, I appreciate them. Email anytime. Good luck. - Rick
thanks for getting back to me so quick, im wanting to get into taxidermy and tanning, last year is the first time I ever really attempted annything like that, i really had no clue and dont know anyone who does this kind of thing, so i just tried to wing it, i scraped my hide pretty good, just wanting to make a rug or something, then i salted the crap out of it, I probly let it set way too long, its stiff as a board, but i really dont know what im doing, so i just worked it for a while and rubbed it down with mink oil, most people would laugh at it i guess but im proud, i just tacked it on the wall in my livin room but next season im hoping to give it another shot and maybe even try mounting something.
ReplyDeleteJesse:
ReplyDeleteSounds like you had a good start. As long as you're happy with it, that's all that counts. Next year, get with me a bit earlier and we can make the next hide softer.
The way to soften those hides that are salted hard is to soak it in salty, cool water overnight. One cup of salt per gal of water. Go to a farm supply store, you can buy a 50 lb bag of salt for less than $5. In the morning, the hide will be pretty relaxed. Might take a little more than a day, but, you should be able to tan it from that step on. Any questions, just email anytime. I usually respond in one to two days. Good luck. - Rick
well rick, looks like season is here again. I would like to make a blanket or a rug or something out of a deer hide this year, i think ill try and get that down before i try to mount anything, ill hopefully have plenty of hides for trial and error, so what do you suggest for making a soft hide with the fur on? is there maybe some kind of kit i could buy? or is there something else? thanks a bunch and God Bless!
ReplyDeleteJesse:
ReplyDeleteHi again! Good to hear from you.
You'll have to tan and break the hide to get a soft hide. It's a lot of work, but, can be done.
If you want to go the kit route, VanDykes or McKenzie's sell them. Each one will do one or two hides.
Email with any questions.
- Rick
Hey rick this is Chris again. I'm not real good with computers so that's probably why I had trouble trying to contact you. I have a few questions on mounting a whitetail. After fleshing, salting and using the chemical tan for 4-6 hrs is the cape then ready to mount after rinsing the chemicals off? How long can I store the moist cape in the fridge after tanning? I was also wondering if u could make a video in detail on how to stitch or sew the cape up. I am starting with a whitetail and think I can do a decent job thanks to your help and videos. Thanks for your time. Chris
ReplyDeleteChris:
ReplyDelete4 to 6 hours doesn't sound like a lot of time to me. What are you using for tanning? Is that what the instructions say? My tans usually stay on for 24 hrs. Let me know. Yes, you can store them for a day or two in the frig. Any longer than that, I would freeze it. Did you check the series on shoulder mount taxidermy for stitching? I thought I had covered that. If not, sure. I think I can probably tape it tomorrow. I'm about ready for one to be at that stage. Answer my questions when you get a second, please. Thanks. Rick
Hey Rick this is chris again, i just mounted my first animal thanks to your videos it looks really good so far but has just started drying. i was wondering if its possible to put to many pins in? i did all the detail with cardboard and pins but i also pinned around the eyes and mouth to hopefully stop it from pulling out. i also put them in other places that i was worried about drumming? is this ok or does the hide need some room to stretch and move during drying? please let me know as soon as you get a chance. I'm going on the second day of drying. thanks so much for all the help.
ReplyDeletechris
Chris:
ReplyDeleteYou don't want your hide to move much while drying. Don't worry about the amount of pins. After awhile, you'll learn how to put pins and restrict the drying in the most sensitive areas, ie, eyes, mouth, nose.
Thanks for compliments. Rick
Rick
ReplyDeleteWhere is a good place to buy a whitetail cape to do a re-mount?
Charlie
I would suggest eBay or taxidermy.net website. On the taxidermy.net go to the "forums" and look under "items for sale". - Rick
DeleteRick
ReplyDeleteCharlie here again, I have a 35 yr old mount we call it the smiling deer with a great big grin and they done a bad job on the whole mount I did not know quite as much then. I can't afford to pay to have it remounted so I will be doing it myself. Please keep up the good work.
Charlie
Is it a bigger deer? It's usually more money the bigger the deer is. You'll probably need to get a new form. It's easier to get a cape and then the form to match. You may be able to use the same eyes. Good luck. - Rick
DeleteMore importantly would be to match your antler base to the new cape. Measure right underneath the antler base. Put a string around there to measure. Ask for a cape that's fairly close to that. - Rick
DeleteHi Rick, I have tried to get into Taxidermy.net without any success. I have registered, recievd an email and tried to log in and this has been several times. All I get is that my " email needs validated" after several attempts and since I can't get in to communicate I can't get any help if you could possibly contact someone by email or whatever to tell them my problem. I would appreciate any help.
ReplyDeleteStill not totally understanding your instruction to measure underneath the antler base? My email address is crm2431@hotmail.com.
Charlie
Try it again later, Charlie. I tried to get on their site to see what was going on. It said my password was invalid. I do know they have problems with their site from time to time. I've found if you wait a day or so, or try a different time, it works fine. Let me know if you try at different times and days and still have the problem.
DeleteAbout the antler base. Take a string and wrap it around the base of one antler. Take that string and measure the distance of the string with a ruler or measuring tape. It should run anywhere from 4" to 8" around. You need to measure right below the pedicle (where the base of the antler meets the skull). When choosing a cape to re-mount, you'll need to make sure the antler base on the hide is as close to the measurement you got on your deer head. That's what I look for when looking for a cape. Is that clearer?
- Rick
I would still like to know how large the deer is; small? medium? large? - Rick
DeleteI would call it a medium deer, base = 5 1/4,,,,, 10 pts Oklahoma count ,,,, weight orig 147 pounds yes much clearer. I thank you a lot for your patience and help.
DeleteCharlie Rogers
You're certainly welcome, Charlie. Thanks for the info. The reason I was asking is that I have a cape here and was wondering if it may fit. But, it came off a smaller deer. The bases were only 4" round.
ReplyDeleteWere you able to get on taxidermy.net yet? I had to sign up new all over again; new name and password. When they sent you the Verification email, did you follow the directions on it? Just wondering if that was maybe the problem. - Rick
Still can't get on it tried off and on all day and yes I got my activation. email and followed directions. Guess I will keep trying. Charlie
DeleteI was able to get on the site yesterday and today. Both without signing in and with. They had several deer capes which would've worked out for you, I believe. But, they were going fast. I also checked eBay. There were a couple on there, but, around $100. If you can wait a bit, deer season is opening up in most places in October. You'll find more capes then and maybe cheaper. After season opens, think about going to a deer processing place and ask them for capes. - Rick
ReplyDeleteThanks for the advice, I will take it into consideration definitely. A processor won't have a mature buck cape will they?????
ReplyDeleteI would still like to get into that forum, what do you suggest? Who do you trust on the forum and ebay?
Charlie ( I really appreciate your guidance)
Trust. That's a tough one. On the taxidermy site, check out the person's listing and see how many listings he's had in the past. If he's a regular, my guess would be he might be able to be trusted. If you find a cape you want, you can also post a question on the forum to see if anybody knows him to be reputable. They'll answer that question quickly.
ReplyDeleteOn eBay, everyone has a rating. It states how many transactions they have had and they are scored on each one. If someone has done something bad, it'll be indicated by negative feedback. If they are reputable, that seller will have positive feedback. You can read it all.
As far as the processor; yes, absolutely... they get many mature buck capes. So, that's what you're going to find the most capes for. If I were you, though, I'd go to the processor ahead of time and tell them exactly what you are looking for. That way, they will get you just the right one and give you a call right away. Better talk price ahead of time too. There's lots of processors out there. Keep that in mind when they shoot you a price.
At this point, I really have no clue at all why you haven't been able to get on to the taxidermy website. It should be running smooth for you by now, one way or the other.
But, if you can wait, I'd suggest the processor route. There will be a lot to be gotten, and unless you're rich, the price is closer to being right. I get my extra capes from my local processor.
Let me know what you end up doing. Good luck. Rick
Thanks a lot Rick, I will stay in touch!
ReplyDeleteCharlie
Hi Rick
ReplyDeleteI called a tanner in North Carolina I had heard he might have a WT cape he said he didn't have any and if he did he wouldn't sell me one because it wouldn't be the same as an Oklahoma cape. I don't think there is much difference is there? I mean a WT is a WT. I mean mine that I have now is a typical WT with a big white patch under the throat. And so what if I want a darker or lighter cape. Am I wrong about all this? Also going to a processor around here the cape is more than likely going to be scalped where they took the rack off the head unless I use a doe cape. I hope I am not a nuisance! Charlie
You're thinking is exactly right on the money, Charlie. I'm sorry you ran into such a jerk at the tannery. Most people in this world are nice, but, you'll run into a jerk now and again.
DeleteGo to a deer processor. They are the ones who actually butcher the deer. If you can, go ahead of season so they can be looking for one for you. If you tell the processor/butcher that you are looking for a "buck cape to be used for taxidermy", they will be very careful when skinning. They really know what they are doing and will not scalp it. They usually do an excellent job at skinning. Make sure you are clear when talking to him/her... say "I need a nice buck cape to be used for taxidermy. Not a little one". If you want it to be dark, or light, or medium... tell them that too. NEVER use a doe cape on a buck. Some will tell you they'll work. I've heard that through the years too. BUT, they do NOT work. They look like heck. If you really think that processors/butchers in your area are not going to do a good job skinning, go to a different one. Maybe your local ones are too small?
Keep in mind, it's e-a-s-y money for the processor. They usually just skin the deer and toss the hide, or sell for next to nothing to a buyer. So, by you walking in their door and wanting to give them good money for one, they will (should) be grateful to be able to make more money from it.
As far as the whitetail deer being different in North Carolina and Oklahoma, that tanner, again, was wrong. Except for subspecies, a whitetail is a whitetail is a whitetail. There's color variations on deer everywhere. Like in Oklahoma, you can get all sorts of colors. By subspecies, I'm speaking about deer like from the Florida Keyes, much smaller styles.
Also, if you are in a hurry to do this, there is one place I would trust to get an already-tanned deerskin for taxidermy. Their name is Moyle Mink and Tannery in Idaho. I use them and definitely trust them. They may have what you are looking for. Here's the link to their phone number and website:
http://www.moytown.com/company.html#contact
Don't worry about your questions to me, Charlie. I started this forum to try to help people where I can. So, I enjoy it.
Keep me in the loop. I know the deer is from Oklahoma, is that where you reside? There's some huge deer in Oklahoma.
Let me know what goes on next. - Rick
Thanks for the info, not really in to much hurry, this close to bow season Oct 1. Yes Okla.
ReplyDeleteHi Rick
ReplyDeleteBeen a while sinced we talked, but I have been attending Rick University of Taxidermy, lol. The last we spoke you advised me to go to the local processors for capes I needed for my remounts, however they aren't to cooperative, they say in Oklahoma it is against the law to sell a cape or buy one. So I am resorting to different hunters to save me a hide, head and all to come up with the cape I need. I have another question, I have a problem following the products you recommend, just which knife are you using on this video to skin out the face?
Any more ideas on obtaining a cape?
Charlie Good hunting!
Hi Charlie. I don't know Oklahoma's laws, but, I would assume the processor knows his stuff. So, that avenue is out. Did you ever get on Taxidermy . Net website? Did you check out eBay? You'd better check into the laws about buying one from a friend. Maybe he/she would have to "gift" it to you. You certainly don't want to violate any laws. That might just be the best route to go, your friends that don't want their capes.
ReplyDeleteTell me what problems are you having getting to the products on the website? Seriously, I am interested. I am really not computer savvy and would appreciate hearing the truth from someone about this site. I think it just needs to be completely redone, but, am not going to pay someone to do it.
I'm enclosing, below, the link to the knife I use for tons of things around the shop, including skinning. It's an invaluable tool for me. It's routed through my site, so, I'll make a couple of pennies on purchases. haha.
I look forward to your critique of my site. I've asked others before, but, would really appreciate some good old fashioned honesty about it.
- Rick
(Charlie, you might have to copy and paste this link into the browser window to go to it. I'm not sure how this will work.)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VYL5TU/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000VYL5TU&linkCode=as2&tag=evewiltaxflid-20
Okay I was right about which knife it was and I assume this knife holds an edge real well. The problem with the website may be a Charlie problem, but I tend to get lost somewhat. Maybe a link by itself to materials you recommend would help clarify.
ReplyDeleteI can buy a cape off ebay or taxidermy.net buy I am not even sure here in Oklahoma if that is legal? I have tried putting the word out to all my hunter friends. I went to Lake Michigan to visit friends and I thought I would bring back a Walleye to practice on, instead I caught 15 lb King Salmon and brought it back. Looks like I will get a workout in the field of fish taxidermy.
Charlie
Ok. Sounds good. I'll have to review the website and change things up. Thanks for the tip.
DeleteI can't help you with the laws in Oklahoma, but, would suggest you call a Natural Resource Official in your area. They'd be the best ones to ask about the cape situation. That way, you'll be legal, no matter what.
That salmon you got is a big fish to start out on. Make sure that head cavity is absolutely clean as a whistle. Very clean. Maybe even think about getting an artificial head. It is VERY hard to get salmon and trout's heads cleaned out well. The oil will leak out and get yellow around the head if it isn't cleaned out really well. Make sure you get a good form that fits also. It'll make this big task just a bit easier on you.
Thanks for the tip. Good luck. - Rick
Also Rick, I been driving around Lake Tenkiller looking for the foam chunks of the type like you were using so far no luck. Any ideas where to get them?
ReplyDeleteCharlie
I've gone fishing in Oklahoma through the years. I'd suggest you go to some of the marinas and ask them. They may have a pile of them that washed up or when they replaced their docks. - Rick
DeleteThanks a lot Rick, I have a form and head ordered. Lol I never planed on this but I have a good teacher so we can do it. Charlie
ReplyDeleteSounds good, Charlie. Take care. - Rick
ReplyDeleteSorry I go through periods of questions. Do you have the airbrush advertised here on your website advertised by Amazon or the one advertised by Van Dykes and what is the difference other than price???
ReplyDeleteCharlie
Hi Charlie. I'm attaching a link below to an article in this website. It's under Pheasant Taxidermy Tips, but, it explains my airbrush, why I use it and tips. May be helpful to you. - Rick
ReplyDeletehttp://wyomingtaxidermy.blogspot.com/search/label/PHEASANT%20TAXIDERMY
Hey Rick
ReplyDeleteThanks for the link that was a really good help. So much so I went ahead and bought the airbrush system, I already had a small compressor. Now I can practice along before tackling the King Salmon. I am waiting for a body and head from Research Mannikins. By the way I had a piece of foam given to me yesterday 4'x4'x12". Thanks for everything Charlie
Awesome, Charlie. Take your time with the foam. Patience is hard sometimes, but, rewarding. Good luck. - Rick
DeleteHi Rick
ReplyDeleteWhat about fleshing your deer cape real well and using a Dry Perservative then mounting it, instead of sending it off for 6 months to a year, would that not work?
Charlie
Yes, it does work. Make sure you flesh it really well & thin around the eyes, forehead, etc., as they'll shrink a lot. Get everything set into place correctly, as you don't want to mess with it while it's drying. The hair needs a couple of weeks to lock into place. - Rick
DeleteWhy don't more of them do it this way? What about some of the proceses in Van Dykes such as Krowtan 2000 are they any good? I'm 60 yrs old it doesn't have to stay looking good too long 30 yrs. It looks like from these catalogs this taxidermy is a going business. So Rick when you get to Tahlequah, I will take you to Katfish Kitchen for a good fish dinner.
ReplyDeleteCharlie: Here's a link to some of the supplies i use for deer taxidermy. Notice one of the supplies is Krowtann:
Deletehttp://wyomingtaxidermy.blogspot.com/2010/09/preparing-your-deer-cape-for-taxidermy.html
Also, did you see this series?
http://wyomingtaxidermy.blogspot.com/2008/12/how-to-prepare-and-tan-your-deer-cape.html
That video series might help you too.
Katfish Kitchen sounds great to me! Rick
Sorry Rick I have covered so much material I cant remember everything, Appreciate everything!
ReplyDeleteCharlie
Sorry for what, Charlie? I just thought you'd like that other series too. Let me know, as always, if you have any suggestions. I listen to them. Take care. - Rick
DeleteHey Rick
ReplyDeletehope things are going well for you and you have gotten a world record buck by now,,, Our gun season starts Saturday and I have put the word out everywhere that I need a cape or 2. Now I hate to keep going over stuff but is it correct if I don't have time for a week or 2 to split the lips and turn the eyes and flesh it, I can; salt it down and roll it up and freeze it till later, correct ?
Charlie (thank you for your patience)
No world record buck for me. Earlier this week I had my right knee replaced. So, I'm pretty laid up right now.
DeleteYou shouldn't have any problem getting your cape(s) if you let others know. Let me know if you get one.
No, don't salt it. The hide will not freeze entirely then, you'll be living on borrowed time. Just fold the cape and put in the freezer. It'll be fine. Make sure you check the cape before you put it in the freezer to make sure it's in good shape. Pull on the hair to make sure it's not slipping. If it's slipping, you might as well just throw away. Some can be saved, some can't. You should at least rough flesh it before freezing though.
Good luck. Let me know how it goes. - Rick
Sorry about your knee, my mother had one done last year its better than ever. Myself I am on borrowed time with my right one. Will follow your directions on the cape when I get it. The king salmon is drying right now, I have a replacement head for it. I had some shrinkage at the tail head, it has been drying almost 3 weeks now. Will be praying for a speedy recovery.
DeleteCharlie
Thanks, Charlie. I know I've heard good things about a new knee. Just getting through the surgery recoup is difficult though. Gives me a new appreciation for those who went through it. You maybe need to think about getting your knee done too. Sounds like the salmon is coming along. Let me know how it goes. Thank you for praying for me. Take care. - Rick
Delete