UPDATE Starting 2012 Season
Prefer to Use the Krowtann "Whitetail Deer Formula" Non-Pickle Tanning Process
Relatively Easy to Use. Nice Results. Order Through VanDykes Taxidermy Supplies.
1-800-279-7985
Item No. KWT200
Either of these two kits would be very useful with Field Dressing, Skinning and Butchering. I use the Kodi-Pak in the Video. The other kit is very similar, but, more reasonably priced. I would recommend either one.
These Swing Blade Knives are useful for Skinning and Gutting. The Orange Handle Makes it Harder to Misplace in the Field:
Click Here for a Large Selection of Skinning and Fleshing Knives
There are Quite a Variety of Fleshing Knives. I Prefer the 16" Listed here:
Click Here for a Variety of Field Dressing Knives
This is the MOST IMPORTANT STEP in the Pickling Process; Checking YOUR pH LEVEL and Making Necessary Adjustments. Follow the Instructions in my Video. If you don't Follow the Instructions for pH Fluctuations, your Hide will not turn out. I cannot Stress this to you Enough.
Click Here for More pH Strip Choices
Citric, Safety or Muratic Acid used for Pickling. I DO NOT Recommend using Muratic Acid as it is Very Dangerous. Safety Precautions and Protection has to be used in its Handling. I DO Recommend Citric or Safety Acid for Pickling pH Adjustment. Baking Soda for Neutralizing.
Click here for Additional Citric or Safety Acid Choices
I Don't Use Vinyl Gloves. They Don't Stretch as Well, and the Sensitivity just isn't there. I Use and Recommend the Following:
But, if you Prefer them, Click here for a Variety of Vinyl Gloves
Or, if you are Allergic to Latex; Click here for Latex-Free Gloves
I always keep my Knives Sharp. Knife Sharpeners I use and like:
Click here for a Variety of Knife Sharpeners
I also have a Couple of Electric Knife Sharpeners. I Really like, and use, the one Below:
Click here for Additional Electric Knife Sharpeners
Table Salt, Non-Iodized is Cheaper. I Buy Salt in Bulk Bags from a Local Feed Store. Check Your Local Farm or Feed Stores for Best Deals.
Click Here for More Non-Iodized Salt Choices
Artificial Sinew
Click here for more Variety and Prices on Artificial Sinew
Needles I use and Recommend
Click here for Additional Curved Needles
For the Hide while Breaking
Click here for Additional Leather Hide Conditioners
Heavy Duty Glue
Click Here for More Heavy Duty Glue Choices
6 " Bench Grinder and Wheel
I've Found that a Bench Grinder with Different Wheels is very useful in Taxidermy.
Click here for a Variety of Bench Grinders
I only use, and always Recommend, Dawn Ultra Dish Soap. It Really does work best at cutting the fat and grease.
Hey Rick, i was wondering if you only use the tanning cream to tan your hides, or do you use other things with it as well? Thanks my e-mail is shotgunjake410@aol.com
ReplyDeleteJake:
ReplyDeleteFor large and small game, I just use the tanning creme, following their directions. Thanks for the question. - Rick
hey, thanks for the response, i want to do a lifesize raccoon mount, but i have a few questions, i know raccoon hides are very greaser, should i throw it in a degreaser mix before i put the liqid tan on? and how would i go about preserving the toes and pads on the bottom of the feet? Thanks
ReplyDeleteJake:
ReplyDeleteyes, put it in the degreaser before the tanning creme. When you wash the tanning creme off, use Dawn dish detergent to wash again in. Rinse well. That really helps cut the grease too.
When you skin the feet out, you'll cut up towards the main pad. Flesh the main pad out, as it'll have fat in it. With the toes, you can't skin them all the way. It's hard. What I do, in the pads of each toe, I inject them with a preservative. Bird and foot preservative. They sell this in taxidermy supply houses.
Thanks. - Rick
Hey Rick, Ive been watching youre videos for quite sometime now and have talked to you in the past about deer mounts etc but ive not taken the plunge yet. But now Im going to. Ive never done any kind of taxidermy whatsoever so i was wondering what are the "must have" tools ill need for getting started? Ill be sending my hide off to be tanned at first, so ill just be doing the mounting process. Thanks for your time
ReplyDeleteDustin:
ReplyDeleteMake sure before you send it off to get tanned that you turn the eyes, ears, lips. Then, salt it well, until it's pretty dry. Once you get it back, you'll have to check it all to make sure it's in good shape to mount. You'll probably have to trim things up a bit, make sure it's thinned enough about the eyes, etc. To answer your question about the tools, etc., see below. Good luck. If you have any more questions, just email. Thanks again. - Rick
(Copied from the Q & A section of my video series PREPARING YOUR DEER CAPE FOR TAXIDERMY VIDEO 5 OF 5)...
"The basic supplies for doing deer are: deer form, eyes, (or deerform w/preset eyes), couple lbs of clay for ear butts and eye modeling, Bondo for the ears, or ear liners, sharp knife (for fleshing and turning the eyes, ears, nose and lips), heavy thread or fishing line (Spiderwire 30-40lb test), a 5" "S" needle for sewing, "T" quilting pins to hold things in place, latex chaulk to use as glue, tanning solution (Rhinehart), salt, surgical scissors (some kind of good knife for trimming meat off around the delicate areas) and rubber gloves."
Thanks for the info! What kind of clay should i order? Do you recommend starting out with a form with preset eyes? What about bondo or ear liners, which is best for a beginner?
ReplyDeleteDustin:
ReplyDeleteUse regular potters clay. You can get it at arts and craft stores, like Hobby Lobby. You can order this from a taxidermy supply house, but, the shipping will be very high.
The pre-set eye forms are definitely a better choice for the beginner. You'll still have to do some pre-mounting work on the form; cut a slot in the mouth, open the nostrils, open tear duct area, etc. You may have to cut the eyelids slot a little deeper.
Bondo is the better choice, as you don't have to worry about taking the cartiledge out. Cartiledge can be very hard for the beginner. Don't use too much Bondo, about two tablespoons per ear. Keep on top of it while it's drying. That way you can keep the form of the ear looking like it should. I use Bondo in all my commercial mounts and have good luck with it. - Rick
Hey rick, i have a question.. im getting ready to mount a 1/2 lifesize whitetail buck, but ive never done anything like that before, so far all ive done is a open mouth bear shoulder mount and a whitetail shoulder mount, but nothing of this size, i was wondering if you have ever mounted a 1/2 lifesize even a lifesize deer for that matter, if so, are there any tips or tricks that you can give me?Thanks
ReplyDeleteJake:
ReplyDeleteI've mounted many lifesize deer and bear. One of the problems you run into with these, is trying to get the skin to fit from the hooves up. Seems like you always have to whittle the forms down a bit in diameter. Form legs are always too big and are the hardest part of this. With the form being a bit larger, and hide shrinkage due to tanning, it adds up to create your problem. If it does seems like your hide has shrunk, go ahead and stretch it a little bit by rubbing it over a semi-sharp object like in my videos. That'll give you a little more width on the legs. A 1/2 deer shouldn't be too bad for you, if you've done a deer and bear so far. Just make sure you leave yourself enough hide to work with. Do your basic procedures. Get a form that'll come pretty close to matching your deer. Let me know how it turns out. If you need more help, just email. Thanks. - Rick
LARGE GAME PROCESSING DVD- SKINNING TO FREEZER - $12.99
ReplyDeleteOn this DVD do you show every step from cleaning the deer to skinning it to preparing it for the freezer?
Thanks.
Denise
Is there a way to ask you a question by email without it being posted here?
ReplyDeleteThanks.
Denise
Denise:
ReplyDeleteThe video you're speaking of follows the processing of the large game, deer. The video starts with the hanging and skinning, follows through the different cuts of meat, how to cut them, etc. It's a good demonstration for the person who wants to butcher their own. It ends with the meat completely done and in baggies.
As for the cleaning, you are speaking about cleaning the deer while in the field, I think. That Field Dressing video is free on my site. Some people have requested copies of it and I have sent it to them. Thanks. - Rick
Denise:
ReplyDeleteSure. It doesn't have to be published. Just send me an email to this same address. Indicate that you do NOT want it published. Provide your email address. I'll not publish it, but, will send your answer directly to your email. BUT, when checking for my email answer, check both your Inbox AND Spam Folder. Feel free to email anytime. - Rick
hey rick, i was wondering, if i were to use the pre-set eye manikins, would i need to do any clay work with the eyes? or is the eye lids already sculpted in the form? Thanks
ReplyDeleteIs it really necessary to pickle deer hides ?
ReplyDeleteThanks Ron
Jake:
ReplyDeleteThe eyelids are sculpted in.
You don't have to do any clay work, but, you can adjust the expression on the eye by trimming up the inside corners and the top eyelid. You will have to cut the eyelid deeper so as to tuck it in, so you can get a good crease. Make sure you sand around the eye so your glue sticks good. You still have to do the nose work, eg, route out the nose nostrils so they are nice and deep. Cut a slot for your lips, so you can tuck your lips. May have to slot the tear ducts too. These are just some extra things to do to make it look good. Let me know how it goes. Rick
Hey Rick, thanks for the reply, i figured id still have to do the nostrils and lip slot ect, what size bit do you reccomend for the lip slot?
ReplyDeleteRon:
ReplyDeleteNo, it isn't. You can use just a brush on tan. That is very minimal work. If you follow their directions closely, it'll turn out nicely. Still have to flesh your hide and salt it, etc. Not pickling is kind of a new thing within the last several years. I went back to pickling hides. They just seem to turn out better.
Good question. Thanks. - Rick
Jake:
ReplyDeleteI use about a 3/16" Dremmel bit. Go in at least 1" so you have plenty of room to tuck the lips. On the back corner of the mouth; hollow out a little bit with your bit. It'll be easier to tuck that corner in. You always have some excess skin there. Make sure you put plenty of glue in the slots and nostrils. If you're not real confident, or you didn't get it tucked very deep, put pins around to hold it in place. Thanks. - Rick
can you mount a mule deer on a whitetail form? i know it sounds strange but its a question thats been bothering me for awhile... Thanks
ReplyDeleteJake:
ReplyDeleteNo such thing as a bad question. No, you can't, they have different shaped heads. - Rick
Do you have any bobcat mounting videos? Thanks
ReplyDeleteDustin:
ReplyDeleteNo, I'm sorry, I sure don't. Have done them, though. They are just like fox, coyote, etc. Email if I can help. - Rick
Hi Rick,
ReplyDeleteOn your video Cape preparation with out pickling.At the end your cape prep you put on the tan cream from Rinhart and let it set 4hrs or even overnight if wanted.
My question is after you put the tan on and let it set overnight do you have to shave the hide before you mount it??
Thank you for your time.
Bill
E-mail:::: non-typicaltaxidermy@msn.com
Bill:
ReplyDeleteIf you didn't shave the cape down after salting, yes, you can do it after the tanning process. It's just a bit harder. Thanks for the question. - Rick
Hi Rick,
ReplyDeleteI was wondering, for finishing a whitetail shoulder mount. What all colors of paint will I need to get? Thanks
Dustin:
ReplyDeleteBurnt Umber for around the eyes, Off White for inside the ears, and Black for the nose. - Rick
Rick:
ReplyDeleteI love your videos. Thanks for taking the time to make them. I'm sure it's hard work and they ARE appreciated. I want to use fish skin to wrap around some custom fishing rods. Some use snake skin, but I want to give it a try. I realize it would have to be descaled to use, but what methods could I use to tan the skin to prepare for mounting? I've seen homemade snake skin recipes calling for glycerin/alcohol, ammonia, etc., but I need something specific for fish. Glycerin seems like it would cause problems with oils when you try to mount it to the rod and then overcoat it with flex coat. Any advice would be great.
Anonymous:
ReplyDeleteThanks for the good words. I appreciate them.
I would first wash the fish in soapy water, then, rinse in cool water. Try using Denatured Alcohol and water. 50/50 mix. Let it soak overnight, then rinse. This should get rid of most of the oil. - Rick
Hello Rick, i just watched your series of videos on tanning w/o pickling, and was wondering what kind of glue do you use for the hide to form bond? I am basically ignorant to this art, and am very interested in learning. Thank you for your time, my e-mail is rmaustin86@yahoo.com
ReplyDeleteAnonymous:
ReplyDeleteI use a glue made by McKenzie or Buckeye Supreme. They both work well for me. There are other hide glues available also.
As for being ignorant, all of us are until we learn about a subject.
Good luck. - Rick
hey rick, i was wondering where is the best place to order deer shoulder mount kits. ive never mounted anything before so i was told its best to buy the kit is that true?
ReplyDeleteAnonymous:
ReplyDeleteLook up VanDykes or McKenzie Taxidermy Supplies. They sell kits. It may be a good way to get your feet wet. Make sure you take eye to nose and neck measurements, so you get a good fit.
Thanks. Rick
hi rick i used the renehart tanning cream on a coyote.the leather looks good but i'm getting some slipping.did a deer and some other mounts and same thing.do u have any answers i would really like that thanks gary
ReplyDeleteGary:
ReplyDeleteWhen you tan without a pickle, you have to make sure the hides are extremely well fleshed, then well salted. After, leave them hang at least three to four hours. Shake excess salt off. Then, proceed with tanning creme. Leave on overnight,etc.
Slippage could be several things. Canines are some of the hardest to tan, as they slip very easily. Especially if it's warm weather and they are not skinned, fleshed and salted right away. Sometimes, on fox and coyote, if you skin them and roll them up and put in freezer, it could take several days to freeze solid. In the meantime, you could end up with some hot spots that could slip.
Deer can also be a problem if they are not taken care of properly. On example is leaving the neck meat in a deer. This holds heat well. Deer have enzymes that start processing their food as soon as they eat it, in their throat. That's why they should be skinned out right away, esp in warmer weather.
When you are tanning a skin, everything almost has to be perfect. Has to be taken care of right off the bat, in the field. A lot of times, we don't have control over what people do in the field to their animals.
If it's just slipping a few hairs here and there, the tanning job is okay. If it's coming out in clumps, it wasn't properly cared for prior to you getting it, or the tanning process wasn't perfectly followed.
Maybe you'd have better luck using a pickle method.
Hope this helps. Email if you have any more questions.
- Rick
When I take in a deer that has a little smell, I've been washing them in a dry preserve diluted in water with a little Lysol. I've lost one cape. What is the best process for dealing with a iffy cape? I use dry preservative to mount.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous:
ReplyDeleteIf it smells, that means that decomposition has started. Grab the hair by the fingerful and pull. If it comes out in clumps, throw it away. It is no good. If you have just a few hairs that come out, you should be able to save it. Flesh right away. Turn the eyes, ears, nose area and make sure you flesh real well. Handle the skin very gently. Don't wash with anything, unless it's extremely bloody. Then, only rinse with water. Most soaps will raise the pH of the hide and cause more slippage. Mount with your dry preservative right away. Groom it the way you want it. Then, don't touch it until it dries. If you touch it, the hair will fall out. It'll take some time to dry, but, once it dries, it should lock the hair in place. Good luck. - Rick
Thanks for the info, been doing this for five years, so still got a lot to learn. This sight and your YouTube channel has been very helpful.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous:
ReplyDeleteYou're sure welcome. We learn a lot through trial and error. Email anytime. Good luck to you. Rick
I'm doing a half size black bear, it's been three weeks since I mounted it. It has dried good in the face and paws, but from the ears down the back its still soft and thick. Is this normal to take this long? Do I need a dehumidifier in my shop? Took bear out of my shop into my house hung it over gas logs.
ReplyDeleteForgot to tell you tanning method I used on bear, I used McKenzie acid pickle and McKenzie tan.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous:
ReplyDeleteThree weeks is not enough for a bear to dry. If you want to dry it out quicker, blow air over the animal with a fan. That'll really help. A bear can easily take 4 to 7 weeks to dry. Of course, the fan will expedite this. Thanks. Rick
Just came back from a successful elk hunt. Now I have two bulls to mount. Skinned mine for life size. I've used the old Dan Chase formula of dry preservative with good results on everything I've used it on. The new company says it will work on elk and moose just fine. I've used McKenzie tan and acid pickle on bear rugs. I've been suggested krowtann,a little afraid to try now process on a big job. What do you suggest? Thanks for all your help.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous Elk Hunter:
ReplyDeleteI wouldn't use a dry preservative on an animal that size, unless you think you can get the hide very thin. In my opinion, it's good for smaller animals, but, not the size of an elk. I wouldn't be afraid to use either MacKenzie or Krowtann. I use Krowtann nowadays. Good luck. - Rick