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Monday, December 8, 2008
Preparing Your Deer Cape for Taxidermy VIDEO 5 OF 5
Jerry: Rinse the tanning creme off, wring out hide, let air dry until just damp. Rub or spray a softening oil on, such as Neetsfoot Oil. As the oil is soaking in, start breaking your hide. Keep breaking it as it dries. Putting oil on as necessary to keep it workable. Thanks. Rick
Use a 2 x 4, bevel both sides at one end, at a 45 degree angle. Screw the other end of it into something solid, so, you can work the hide over the top of it. Work back and forth. It takes a lot of work to soften a deer hide. Once the oil is worked in and the hide starts to dry again, put more oil on and do this over again. Two or three times, or until hide remains soft.
Hey, Great blog! I am a beginning taxidermist, and as an 18-year old college student, I find it difficult to gather taxidermy resources cheap, and I don't really have many friends who do taxidermy (I have a few who love the bird mounts that I've done!), however, I was wondering... am I allowed to use the videos on this site (or youTube) without paying anything? Am I free to use them as a guide for my first deer mount? You essentially give the entire mounting process online, without any charge (right?) which would have costed me 20$ in a catologue(20$ that I don't have).
DJ McNeil: Yep. The videos on my Blog are free. No problems! Whatever it takes to help you. I always try to do my taxidermy as economical as possible. There are a lot of short cuts, information which only experience can teach you. Glad I could help you. Let me know if I can help you. Just email. Also... complete your education. Good luck. Rick
Thanks! This site is a lifesaver. I'm about to do my first deer mount for a friend, and will probably have a lot of questions (even though your videos say a lot). If I do, which I inevitably will (I already have a couple) should I ask them like this, or should i actually send you an email from my account? Thanks Rick, DJ
Hey Rick, I was wondering, my buddy wants me to mount a buck for him, but after he caped it out, he let it sit in his RELATIVELY cool garage for over 24 hrs before putting it into the freezer. He thinks that there may be some hair slippage, but I haven't seen it yet. Could I still tan it if there is slippage? Can I reverse the slippage? Stop it from getting worse? If not, is there any way to get a replacement pre-tanned hide? Thanks for your help, love the blog, DJ
DJ: The easy way to determine if it's slipping; go to the throat area and see if it comes out in clumps. If a few hairs come out, you're okay. On an "iffy" cape like this, I would use only a dry preservative. Be careful how you handle it. Turn the eyes, lips, nose and get them thinned. Use your dry preservative to mount up as carefully as you can. Not too much handling. Set the ears. Over the next couple of days, make sure the eyes are drying right. Let the deer sit, don't touch very much. The hair will fall out on dry tanned deer until the skin sets. I want to stress, don't pull on the hair until it's completely dried. A fan to circulate the air will help cut down the drying time. Give it 30 days to set. That's what I do with "iffy" capes. Taxidermy sites usually offer wet or dry tanned hides at a reasonable cost. Good luck. Thanks for the good words. Rick
Rick What advice can you give someone who know`s alittle about Taxidermy but is worried that he might mess up the customers trophy. I`m looking at trying to make a living at this since I was laid off from last job. I remember you in one of your video`s saying not to turn any work away. Thanks Randy
Randy: You'll gain confidence with your mounts through experience. Start with simplier projects. Don't take on anything too tough until you gain the experience. One of the most common mistakes the beginning taxidermist makes is not thinning the cape well enough; the eyes, ears, mouth, nose, etc. Make sure that is done very well. I would use a form from either Rhinehart or McKenzie with pre-set eyes. That will give you a good looking product to build on. I think I have videos on the web on taxidermying deer mounts. That would be helpful to you to watch also. Take your time. Do it as good as you can. After you feel comfortable with the less complicated mounts, you'll naturally want to progress to the harder ones. You will gain confidence. If you want, you could send me some progress pictures and I would be happy to critique them for you. Or, I'm always here to answer any questions you may have. There are not too many mistakes that can't be fixed. Thanks. Rick
Thanks for everything you are doing! You really are an inspiration to outdoorsmen everywhere. I had a few questions for you. Would i be able to buy some of that tanning solution at a gander mountain or bass pro shops? And i was also wondering if you still have to make to videos on flintknapping and antler-works or if i am just missing them :) You can email me at Seifaoc@yahoo.com and that would be great! Thanks alot! ~Luke~
Luke: Thanks for all the good words. I appreciate hearing them. I always get the tanning cream through: DAN RINEHART TANNING CREAM. 203 South Main St., Edgerton, WI 53534. 1-866-296-2782. Don't know if Gander Mtn or Bass Pro sells it. I haven't got to the flintknapping, hunting, series yet. Got too busy with mounts this year. But, I'll get it on as soon as I can. I do have a basic antler wall mount video coming up, probably next week. Also have a full series on mounting fish; from the water to your wall, this week too. Put me in your Favorites and you won't miss it. Thanks again. Email anytime! Rick
Rick, I'm tanning a deer hide for a college course. I've done the rough fleshing but haven't ordered a tanning agent. I do like the way that your Rinehart Tanning Cream works; it looks a lot easier than pickling. After I apply the cream, do I just add the sofening oil, Neetfoot oil, and break the hardness of the hide? I've had taxidermy books for years but am just now starting. Thanks for the help!
Ron: The video you are asking about is primarily for getting your cape ready for a taxidermy mount. In your case, you are tanning a hide. It's a bit different. The Tanning Cream has an agent in it that helps to soften your hide. Once you rinse the tanning cream off, let hang to dry. Then, when you are starting to break the hide, put Neetsfoot Oil, Saddle Soap, or other oil, on the dry parts you are starting to break. It's very helpful this way. FYI: I just put out a new video that can be purchased on this Google site. It would be helpful to you. I keep my video prices low, as I see no reason to have them priced any higher. But, things are probably tight for you right now as you're in college. So, just email me anytime. I'd be happy to help. Plus, stay in college and get your degree. - Rick
Hi Rick, I have been wanting to try to do my own deer mount for a while now. Last year I just got into doing some european mounts that turned out nice. I would like to have a list of the basic supplies that I need to do a deer shoulder mount. Thanks for the videos they give me confidence in trying this.
I'm glad to hear that your European Mounts turned out good. Your basic supplies for doing deer will be: deer form, eyes, (or deerform w/preset eyes), couple lbs of clay for ear butts and eye modeling, Bondo for the ears, or ear liners, sharp knife (for fleshing and turning the eyes, ears, nose and lips), heavy thread or fishing line (Spiderwire 30-40lb test), a 5" "S" needle for sewing, "T" quilting pins to hold things in place, latex chaulk to use as glue, tanning solution (Rhinehart), salt, surgical scissors (some kind of good knife for trimming meat off around the delicate areas) and rubber gloves. I think that'll do you. If you have any questions along the way, just email me. Thanks for the question. Rick
Rylan: It will act like any other meat left to the elements. It will begin to stink, then, rot, and stink more. The bacteria from the rot will eat away at the skin eventually. There's excess shrinkage also. You won't get a good fit around the eyes, if it's not thinned down properly. Have you already sewed it up? While you're skinning, if you think you may have meat left on it, you probably do. There is nothing to fix it, if you've already sewed it up, except to take it all apart and redo it. It's very important to get it all at first. Take your time. Don't rush. But, it's definitely a Do Over. Email anytime. Rick
I've been having a hard time finding the Rinhart tanning cream. is there a website I can order it from or maybe a catalog I can order off of? thanks, Micah.
Have you ever tried or know anybody that has tried the McKenzie Tanning System solution? I was wondering how it compared to the Rinehart tanning cream. Some people say the Rinehart tanning cream isn't as good now as the original stuff.
Eddie: I just tanned two bear skins using the McKenzie Tanning Oil. I pickled them first, then, used their tanning cream. It tanned them beautifully. They are hanging up and getting to be ready to be made into rugs. I've had good luck with both. The Rhinehart cream doesn't require a pickle. The McKenzie does. I haven't noticed any difference in Rhinehart's cream now and before. Just remember to shake either product VERY WELL. Set the bottle in a pan of hot water to warm the cream up. It works much better. Thanks. - Rick
You need to get some citric or safety acid. Mix one half ounce of acid, one lb of salt, per gal of water. Need at least five gals of water. Mix accordingly. Adjust your pH as needed; stay around 1 to 2. Stir at least several times each day for three days. Check the pH frequently. After the pickle, neutralize w/one ounce baking soda per gal of water. Neutralize for at least half an hour. Drain, let hang for awhile. Do final fleshing; around eyes, nose, lips. Get ready to mount. - Rick
Eddie: pH test strips can be bought at any taxidermy supply house, like McKenzie's. Simply dip one strip into the pickle, compare to the pH guide on the side of the container. This checks the acidity or alkalinity of your pickle. This always has to be watched very carefully. Safety or Citric Acid is used to lower the pH. - Rick
rick, i am new at taxidermy, should i start with a coyote or deer? i will do mostly deer heads, but would like to start with something easy. will a coyote head be better to start with? plus it should be cheaper. have you got any videos on a coyote? thanks jamie
Jamie: Have you taxidermied any animal yet? If not, I would start out small, like a squirrel. This would teach you alot about taxidermy, instead of jumping right in on a larger animal. I do have raw video of coyote mounting, but, have not got it into DVD format yet. Let me know about your experience, etc. Thanks. Rick
Rick im just starting out. never done anything. Alot of people said a coyote is easier than a squirl. thats why im doing one of them. where can i see your video on doing a coyote? also do you do any training? looking for a school to go to? Also do you use any stop rot? thanks jamie ps. thanks for the videos i have watch them on here several times!!!!!
Jamie: Coyote is not easier than a squirrel. Any animal is easy to mount up. It's getting them to look life-like that is the hard part. A squirrel can give you a lot of hands on experience. There are lots of little things you can do to a squirrel to make it look good. The life-like look is in the details. Regarding coyote, they are hard to do. They are thin-skinned for sure. But, getting it to look real is more than a one time shot. By that I mean, you'll have to do several to get them to look good. Use reference photos. On the coyote, make sure that you turn the eyes, the nose, the lips properly. A lot of detail is in these areas. You have to prepare your form properly, cut your lip slots, get the nose prepared, properly set and sculpt eyes, ears are turned all the way out. You need to get your ear forms or Bondo up in there properly. Instead of pickling and tanning the hide, I would go with either Borax or Rhinehart Liquid Tan. With the Borax you have to watch for shrinkage more, adjust your hide more as it dries. I do have raw video which we are still working on of mounting a coyote. It's not done yet. I sure hope to get it done in the next couple of weeks. Then, I'll post it here. Before you chose taxidermy schooling, I'd stick with videos, Breakthrough Magazine, and the internet help groups; like taxidermy.net. You have to have a thick skin on taxidermy.net, sometimes they'll rip us pretty good. I would do these things before spending the big bucks on school. Do some hands on first, just to make sure that you like it and have what it takes to make it. I've seen some people come out of the schooling, that just don't have the knack for what the actual animals look like. Reference photos are wonderful to rely on, but, you have to be able to make the leap from the reference photos to your work. Some do it well, others can't. Hopefully, you can. The worst thing you can do is start on a large project, not do well, and get burnt out. Best to start smaller, tweak things, get some experience, and build up your confidence. About your Stop Rot question; if you have to use that, your hide is pretty well useless. So, go onto a different hide. If you have any more questions, feel free to contact me anytime. Thanks for the compliments. - Rick
hey rick i am only 14 and i love taxidermy. i already started mounting my goose i shot last season but i am stuck on the tanning part. so i watched your video and i was wonder where you get that tanning cream?
Brandon: I listed everything I use, and links to go with them, under the category SUPPLIES heading on my blog. Go there, and you'll see exactly where I get the tanning cream, etc. BUT, for geese, you'll need to use a DRY PRESERVATIVE or Borax. You can get the Dry Preservative out of one of the taxidermy supply houses. Get the Borax at your local grocery store. Make sure you get all the fat off of the goose. Geese are very hard to do and quite a project for the first time. I just did a Canadian Goose today. Email if you need any help. Thanks. - Rick
HI Rick, I have a caribou cape in my freezer which i had salted prior to freezing 7-8 yrs ago. I am now proceeding with doing some wall mount with it, do you think it's still good? If I don't want to soften the cape, do i need to use tanning oil? I would just scrape the remaining fat etc and hang to dry? Am i missing a step or two? Will the hair fall out?
The only problem with salting it before freezing, is that the hide doesn't usually totally freeze. I would thaw the hide and check for hair slippage. Do that by pulling gently on the hair in several areas of the hide. While it may not slip in one area, it may in another. It also may be freezer burned since it was in so long. If so, it's tough to get it back, but you'll have to soak it in a solution of cool salt water. One cup per gallon of water. For a day or two. You'll know if that helps soften it. This will also help keep it from spoiling. If it is freezer burned, this should soften it up. For the moment, let's assume it's in good shape. Rinse the salt off. Make sure your ears, lips and nose are turned. Then, go ahead and precede with the tanning. Let the tanning creme stay on it for 24 hours. Hopefully, this will turn out good for you. Let me know. Also, email me if you have more questions, or if I can help get that mount done for you. Good luck. - Rick
Hi Rick, Just an update, the caribou hide looks great coming out of the freezer--looks like I had not salted it afterall. No dry spots or hair slippage. So, once unfrozen, I cleaned her up, removing any excess fat/meat, then layed her down, salted it yesterday. I will hang it to dry for a couple of hours today, rinse her off with cool water, then use the tanning oil for 24hrs. After which point I will clean her up good with dishsoap and soak her up with fabric softener. Do I need to use Borax at some point? As well, do I need to put her in the wringer, or will it eventually dry, just hung? Or is it better to spread it out on the floor to dry? Please let me know if I am proceeding correctly with this project. Thanks for your great advice! One of santa's elves from Canada (haha!!)
Santa's Elf: If you're one of his elves, I'm betting your Christmas was great! ha.ha. I'm sure glad to hear that the caribou cape is in good shape. Good news right off the bat! No, you don't use Borax at all. I should've asked you earlier, is this for a taxidermy mount? or a hide to hang on the wall? Let me know please. There is a difference in how to handle them. If it's for taxidermy, don't let it dry completely. If it's for a wall hanging rug, you need to break the hide as it's drying. You don't need to wring it out, just hang to slowly dry. You can tell when it goes from damp to dry. This is when you need to "break" it. The non-hair side needs to be broken over a dull-bladed object to stretch the fibers apart. This makes for a softer hide. As it's drying, in between breaking, you'll need to oil the hide with Neetsfoot Oil or another type of leather oil. This helps with the breaking process and helps to soften the hide. Let me know if it's a taxidermy mount or a wall hanging. Sounds like you've got things under control. Email if you have any other questions. Let me know how it's going. - Rick
Rick, The hide is for a wall hanging. I wanted to ask you, how do you deal with the tail. I removed most of the bone, but not all. Do I make a slit alongside the bone to remove it all, or can some of it stay there and dry out without causing me problems with rotting at a later date? After I wipe off the tanning cream, do I need to wash it with soap etc, or do I go directly to breaking/oiling it? I am just thinking that I need to wash the hairside at some point? Does mink oil work as well as Neetsfoot oil? thanks a bunch!
Anonymous: The tail has to be split all the way down. Then, you can cut the bone out. This makes it real easy to get the tail out. After tanning, rinse the hide in cool water. Get the tanning creme off of it. Then, wash it in luke-warm soapy water. Sit for about half an hour. Rinse in cool water to get the soap out. Wring it out, or hang it, to start the drying process. As it starts to dry, you'll be able to tell when to start breaking, when it's almost dry. Mink oil would work as well, but, it's more expensive. Thanks. - Rick
Hi Rick, I am now working the caribou hide to soften it. It looks really nice, although there is some hair slippage in one spot (3 inches round), this happened when I washed it (after the tanning cream step). It may have been the folded edge (while in the freezer)? I guess that is difficult to patch up, any suggestions? Anyway, it was a great first experience, and I am looking forward to another hide in the near future. Thanks again for your guidance, much appreciated. All the best in the new year, 'Santa's elf'
Elf: You can make a football-shaped cut around the hole and sew it up. Make sure when you make the cut you go with the hair, follow the hair. Not across it. This will sew up into a fairly flat line and may work out well for you. You'll be able to see it, but, it won't be like looking at a bald spot. It'll just be a slight seam. Use waxed thread and a heavy needle to sew it up. Sew it from the bottom, the leather side, making sure you keep the hair on top and out of the seam. Let me know how that turns out for you. I'm glad you were able to save the hide. - Rick
hey, i'm working on my first deer mount. I've already fleshed, salted, tanned and thinned the hide. What i'm worried about is i thined the hide after tanning, i'm worried the tanning cream did not penetrate like it should have. The hair seems very secure and i have the hide thined very well. It is in the freezer as I prep my mount. should I go ahead and mount it up or should I try another application of dan rinehart tanning cream? Thanks for all the help. also for coyote tanning, do what tanning chemical do you prefer. I was thinking about using the same tanning cream for that. Thanks k2sports2002@yahoo.com
k2sports: If you're concerned about it, give it another four to five hours of tanning creme. Try to thin the hides before the tanning creme next time. Yes, this can be used on a coyote too. That's what I use on them, and fox. Good luck. Rick
I am doing an albino buck full body mount and the customer butchered the hide. The buck was killed during bow season and the hide is thin. I'm wondering if you have any ideas on how to conceal the seams on the legs where the customer cut up the entire front of the leg. This deer is so amazing that I hate that the seams are showing! Thanks for any suggestions.
You can try to sew using small stitches and try to conceal the seams. I know it's hard on shorthaired deer. Talk to the customer and if you can place habitate such as long grass or sticks, you may be able to conceal some of the damage. But, talk to the customer and tell him what is going on and make sure his expectations are not too high considering the skinning job.
Hello I am very happy with your videos and you've helped me a lot I can't seem to find you email could I please have it to get some further info and help
Feel free to contact me anytime through this website. Just like you are doing here. I answer all questions within 24 hours and publish them. Everybody can learn from them that way. Thanks for writing in. - Rick
When useing the rinehart cream on cayote what do I need to do on last step to soften it and make it more pliable.
ReplyDeleteThamks Jerry
Jerry:
ReplyDeleteRinse the tanning creme off, wring out hide, let air dry until just damp. Rub or spray a softening oil on, such as Neetsfoot Oil. As the oil is soaking in, start breaking your hide. Keep breaking it as it dries. Putting oil on as necessary to keep it workable.
Thanks. Rick
Rick
ReplyDeleteWhat technique do use to break the hide. I have only done deer hide and I used a scraping method and sanded it.
Use a 2 x 4, bevel both sides at one end, at a 45 degree angle. Screw the other end of it into something solid, so, you can work the hide over the top of it. Work back and forth. It takes a lot of work to soften a deer hide. Once the oil is worked in and the hide starts to dry again, put more oil on and do this over again. Two or three times, or until hide remains soft.
ReplyDeleteRick
ReplyDeleteThanks for the help. I will give the 2x4 a try.
Thanks again
Jerry
No problem Jerry. Let me know how it works for you. Rick
ReplyDeleteHey, Great blog! I am a beginning taxidermist, and as an 18-year old college student, I find it difficult to gather taxidermy resources cheap, and I don't really have many friends who do taxidermy (I have a few who love the bird mounts that I've done!), however, I was wondering... am I allowed to use the videos on this site (or youTube) without paying anything? Am I free to use them as a guide for my first deer mount? You essentially give the entire mounting process online, without any charge (right?) which would have costed me 20$ in a catologue(20$ that I don't have).
ReplyDeleteDJ McNeil:
ReplyDeleteYep. The videos on my Blog are free. No problems! Whatever it takes to help you. I always try to do my taxidermy as economical as possible. There are a lot of short cuts, information which only experience can teach you. Glad I could help you. Let me know if I can help you. Just email. Also... complete your education. Good luck. Rick
Thanks! This site is a lifesaver.
ReplyDeleteI'm about to do my first deer mount for a friend, and will probably have a lot of questions (even though your videos say a lot). If I do, which I inevitably will (I already have a couple) should I ask them like this, or should i actually send you an email from my account?
Thanks Rick, DJ
DJ:
ReplyDeleteGo ahead and go through this forum for questions and answers. That way, others who may have the same questions can benefit too. Good luck. Rick
Hey Rick,
ReplyDeleteI was wondering, my buddy wants me to mount a buck for him, but after he caped it out, he let it sit in his RELATIVELY cool garage for over 24 hrs before putting it into the freezer. He thinks that there may be some hair slippage, but I haven't seen it yet.
Could I still tan it if there is slippage? Can I reverse the slippage? Stop it from getting worse?
If not, is there any way to get a replacement pre-tanned hide?
Thanks for your help,
love the blog,
DJ
DJ:
ReplyDeleteThe easy way to determine if it's slipping; go to the throat area and see if it comes out in clumps. If a few hairs come out, you're okay. On an "iffy" cape like this, I would use only a dry preservative. Be careful how you handle it. Turn the eyes, lips, nose and get them thinned. Use your dry preservative to mount up as carefully as you can. Not too much handling. Set the ears. Over the next couple of days, make sure the eyes are drying right. Let the deer sit, don't touch very much. The hair will fall out on dry tanned deer until the skin sets. I want to stress, don't pull on the hair until it's completely dried. A fan to circulate the air will help cut down the drying time. Give it 30 days to set. That's what I do with "iffy" capes. Taxidermy sites usually offer wet or dry tanned hides at a reasonable cost.
Good luck. Thanks for the good words. Rick
Rick
ReplyDeleteWhat advice can you give someone who know`s alittle about Taxidermy but is worried that he might mess up the customers trophy. I`m looking at trying to make a living at this since I was laid off from last job. I remember you in one of your video`s saying not to turn any work away.
Thanks Randy
Randy:
ReplyDeleteYou'll gain confidence with your mounts through experience. Start with simplier projects. Don't take on anything too tough until you gain the experience. One of the most common mistakes the beginning taxidermist makes is not thinning the cape well enough; the eyes, ears, mouth, nose, etc. Make sure that is done very well. I would use a form from either Rhinehart or McKenzie with pre-set eyes. That will give you a good looking product to build on. I think I have videos on the web on taxidermying deer mounts. That would be helpful to you to watch also. Take your time. Do it as good as you can. After you feel comfortable with the less complicated mounts, you'll naturally want to progress to the harder ones. You will gain confidence. If you want, you could send me some progress pictures and I would be happy to critique them for you. Or, I'm always here to answer any questions you may have. There are not too many mistakes that can't be fixed. Thanks. Rick
Thanks I will send u some pic.
ReplyDeleteI enjoyed your videos
ReplyDeleteIt would be helpful to know what tanning cream you use and where one can purchase it
Billie2256@aim.com
Randy:
ReplyDeleteSounds good. Rick
Beegly:
ReplyDeleteDAN RINEHART TANNING CREAM. 203 South Main St., Edgerton, WI 53534. 1-866-296-2782.
Thank you. - Rick
Thanks for everything you are doing! You really are an inspiration to outdoorsmen everywhere. I had a few questions for you. Would i be able to buy some of that tanning solution at a gander mountain or bass pro shops? And i was also wondering if you still have to make to videos on flintknapping and antler-works or if i am just missing them :) You can email me at Seifaoc@yahoo.com and that would be great! Thanks alot!
ReplyDelete~Luke~
Luke: Thanks for all the good words. I appreciate hearing them. I always get the tanning cream through: DAN RINEHART TANNING CREAM. 203 South Main St., Edgerton, WI 53534. 1-866-296-2782. Don't know if Gander Mtn or Bass Pro sells it. I haven't got to the flintknapping, hunting, series yet. Got too busy with mounts this year. But, I'll get it on as soon as I can. I do have a basic antler wall mount video coming up, probably next week. Also have a full series on mounting fish; from the water to your wall, this week too. Put me in your Favorites and you won't miss it. Thanks again. Email anytime! Rick
ReplyDeleteRick, I'm tanning a deer hide for a college course. I've done the rough fleshing but haven't ordered a tanning agent. I do like the way that your Rinehart Tanning Cream works; it looks a lot easier than pickling. After I apply the cream, do I just add the sofening oil, Neetfoot oil, and break the hardness of the hide? I've had taxidermy books for years but am just now starting. Thanks for the help!
ReplyDeleteRon:
ReplyDeleteThe video you are asking about is primarily for getting your cape ready for a taxidermy mount. In your case, you are tanning a hide. It's a bit different.
The Tanning Cream has an agent in it that helps to soften your hide. Once you rinse the tanning cream off, let hang to dry. Then, when you are starting to break the hide, put Neetsfoot Oil, Saddle Soap, or other oil, on the dry parts you are starting to break. It's very helpful this way.
FYI: I just put out a new video that can be purchased on this Google site. It would be helpful to you. I keep my video prices low, as I see no reason to have them priced any higher. But, things are probably tight for you right now as you're in college. So, just email me anytime. I'd be happy to help. Plus, stay in college and get your degree. - Rick
Hi Rick, I have been wanting to try to do my own deer mount for a while now. Last year I just got into doing some european mounts that turned out nice. I would like to have a list of the basic supplies that I need to do a deer shoulder mount. Thanks for the videos they give me confidence in trying this.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad to hear that your European Mounts turned out good. Your basic supplies for doing deer will be: deer form, eyes, (or deerform w/preset eyes), couple lbs of clay for ear butts and eye modeling, Bondo for the ears, or ear liners, sharp knife (for fleshing and turning the eyes, ears, nose and lips), heavy thread or fishing line (Spiderwire 30-40lb test), a 5" "S" needle for sewing, "T" quilting pins to hold things in place, latex chaulk to use as glue, tanning solution (Rhinehart), salt, surgical scissors (some kind of good knife for trimming meat off around the delicate areas) and rubber gloves. I think that'll do you. If you have any questions along the way, just email me. Thanks for the question. Rick
ReplyDeleteRick,
ReplyDeletewhat will happen if a little meet gets lest on the nose pad, lip, of eyes?
Thanks Rylan
metalcraz@yahoo.com
Rylan:
ReplyDeleteIt will act like any other meat left to the elements. It will begin to stink, then, rot, and stink more. The bacteria from the rot will eat away at the skin eventually. There's excess shrinkage also. You won't get a good fit around the eyes, if it's not thinned down properly. Have you already sewed it up? While you're skinning, if you think you may have meat left on it, you probably do. There is nothing to fix it, if you've already sewed it up, except to take it all apart and redo it. It's very important to get it all at first. Take your time. Don't rush. But, it's definitely a Do Over. Email anytime. Rick
I've been having a hard time finding the Rinhart tanning cream. is there a website I can order it from or maybe a catalog I can order off of?
ReplyDeletethanks, Micah.
Micah:
ReplyDeleteThese two links should take you directly where you need to go. Let me know if you have any more questions. - Rick
http://www.taxidermyarts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=28_77&products_id=2931
Softening Oil:
http://www.taxidermyarts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=28_77&products_id=2935
Telephone:
Toll Free: (866) 296-2782
Dan Rinehart Taxidermy
203 S. Main St.
Edgerton, WI 53534
Have you ever tried or know anybody that has tried the McKenzie Tanning System solution? I was wondering how it compared to the Rinehart tanning cream. Some people say the Rinehart tanning cream isn't as good now as the original stuff.
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Eddie
Eddie:
ReplyDeleteI just tanned two bear skins using the McKenzie Tanning Oil. I pickled them first, then, used their tanning cream. It tanned them beautifully. They are hanging up and getting to be ready to be made into rugs. I've had good luck with both. The Rhinehart cream doesn't require a pickle. The McKenzie does. I haven't noticed any difference in Rhinehart's cream now and before. Just remember to shake either product VERY WELL. Set the bottle in a pan of hot water to warm the cream up. It works much better. Thanks. - Rick
How do you do the pickle before using the McKenzie tanning solution?
ReplyDeleteEddie
You need to get some citric or safety acid. Mix one half ounce of acid, one lb of salt, per gal of water. Need at least five gals of water. Mix accordingly. Adjust your pH as needed; stay around 1 to 2. Stir at least several times each day for three days. Check the pH frequently. After the pickle, neutralize w/one ounce baking soda per gal of water. Neutralize for at least half an hour. Drain, let hang for awhile. Do final fleshing; around eyes, nose, lips. Get ready to mount. - Rick
ReplyDeleteHow do you check the ph and how do you adjust it?
ReplyDeleteThanks for all your help,
Eddie
Rick,
ReplyDeleteHave you ever used the Krowtann 2000 for tanning? If so, what to you think of it?
Samuel
Eddie:
ReplyDeletepH test strips can be bought at any taxidermy supply house, like McKenzie's. Simply dip one strip into the pickle, compare to the pH guide on the side of the container. This checks the acidity or alkalinity of your pickle. This always has to be watched very carefully. Safety or Citric Acid is used to lower the pH. - Rick
Samuel:
ReplyDeleteYes, I've used Krowtann and had very good luck with it. Just follow the instructions carefully. Good luck. - Rick
rick, i am new at taxidermy, should i start with a coyote or deer? i will do mostly deer heads, but would like to start with something easy. will a coyote head be better to start with? plus it should be cheaper. have you got any videos on a coyote? thanks jamie
ReplyDeleteJamie:
ReplyDeleteHave you taxidermied any animal yet? If not, I would start out small, like a squirrel. This would teach you alot about taxidermy, instead of jumping right in on a larger animal. I do have raw video of coyote mounting, but, have not got it into DVD format yet. Let me know about your experience, etc. Thanks. Rick
Rick im just starting out. never done anything. Alot of people said a coyote is easier than a squirl. thats why im doing one of them. where can i see your video on doing a coyote? also do you do any training? looking for a school to go to? Also do you use any stop rot? thanks jamie ps. thanks for the videos i have watch them on here several times!!!!!
ReplyDeleteJamie:
ReplyDeleteCoyote is not easier than a squirrel. Any animal is easy to mount up. It's getting them to look life-like that is the hard part. A squirrel can give you a lot of hands on experience. There are lots of little things you can do to a squirrel to make it look good. The life-like look is in the details. Regarding coyote, they are hard to do. They are thin-skinned for sure. But, getting it to look real is more than a one time shot. By that I mean, you'll have to do several to get them to look good. Use reference photos. On the coyote, make sure that you turn the eyes, the nose, the lips properly. A lot of detail is in these areas. You have to prepare your form properly, cut your lip slots, get the nose prepared, properly set and sculpt eyes, ears are turned all the way out. You need to get your ear forms or Bondo up in there properly. Instead of pickling and tanning the hide, I would go with either Borax or Rhinehart Liquid Tan. With the Borax you have to watch for shrinkage more, adjust your hide more as it dries.
I do have raw video which we are still working on of mounting a coyote. It's not done yet. I sure hope to get it done in the next couple of weeks. Then, I'll post it here.
Before you chose taxidermy schooling, I'd stick with videos, Breakthrough Magazine, and the internet help groups; like taxidermy.net. You have to have a thick skin on taxidermy.net, sometimes they'll rip us pretty good. I would do these things before spending the big bucks on school. Do some hands on first, just to make sure that you like it and have what it takes to make it. I've seen some people come out of the schooling, that just don't have the knack for what the actual animals look like. Reference photos are wonderful to rely on, but, you have to be able to make the leap from the reference photos to your work. Some do it well, others can't. Hopefully, you can. The worst thing you can do is start on a large project, not do well, and get burnt out. Best to start smaller, tweak things, get some experience, and build up your confidence.
About your Stop Rot question; if you have to use that, your hide is pretty well useless. So, go onto a different hide.
If you have any more questions, feel free to contact me anytime. Thanks for the compliments. - Rick
hey rick i am only 14 and i love taxidermy. i already started mounting my goose i shot last season but i am stuck on the tanning part. so i watched your video and i was wonder where you get that tanning cream?
ReplyDeletemy e-mail is wilczakb@yahoo.com
Brandon:
ReplyDeleteI listed everything I use, and links to go with them, under the category SUPPLIES heading on my blog. Go there, and you'll see exactly where I get the tanning cream, etc. BUT, for geese, you'll need to use a DRY PRESERVATIVE or Borax. You can get the Dry Preservative out of one of the taxidermy supply houses. Get the Borax at your local grocery store. Make sure you get all the fat off of the goose. Geese are very hard to do and quite a project for the first time. I just did a Canadian Goose today. Email if you need any help. Thanks. - Rick
HI Rick,
ReplyDeleteI have a caribou cape in my freezer which i had salted prior to freezing 7-8 yrs ago. I am now proceeding with doing some wall mount with it, do you think it's still good? If I don't want to soften the cape, do i need to use tanning oil? I would just scrape the remaining fat etc and hang to dry? Am i missing a step or two? Will the hair fall out?
The only problem with salting it before freezing, is that the hide doesn't usually totally freeze. I would thaw the hide and check for hair slippage. Do that by pulling gently on the hair in several areas of the hide. While it may not slip in one area, it may in another. It also may be freezer burned since it was in so long. If so, it's tough to get it back, but you'll have to soak it in a solution of cool salt water. One cup per gallon of water. For a day or two. You'll know if that helps soften it. This will also help keep it from spoiling. If it is freezer burned, this should soften it up.
ReplyDeleteFor the moment, let's assume it's in good shape. Rinse the salt off. Make sure your ears, lips and nose are turned. Then, go ahead and precede with the tanning. Let the tanning creme stay on it for 24 hours. Hopefully, this will turn out good for you.
Let me know. Also, email me if you have more questions, or if I can help get that mount done for you. Good luck. - Rick
Hi Rick,
ReplyDeleteJust an update, the caribou hide looks great coming out of the freezer--looks like I had not salted it afterall. No dry spots or hair slippage. So, once unfrozen, I cleaned her up, removing any excess fat/meat, then layed her down, salted it yesterday. I will hang it to dry for a couple of hours today, rinse her off with cool water, then use the tanning oil for 24hrs. After which point I will clean her up good with dishsoap and soak her up with fabric softener. Do I need to use Borax at some point? As well, do I need to put her in the wringer, or will it eventually dry, just hung? Or is it better to spread it out on the floor to dry? Please let me know if I am proceeding correctly with this project. Thanks for your great advice!
One of santa's elves from Canada (haha!!)
Santa's Elf:
ReplyDeleteIf you're one of his elves, I'm betting your Christmas was great! ha.ha.
I'm sure glad to hear that the caribou cape is in good shape. Good news right off the bat!
No, you don't use Borax at all.
I should've asked you earlier, is this for a taxidermy mount? or a hide to hang on the wall? Let me know please. There is a difference in how to handle them.
If it's for taxidermy, don't let it dry completely.
If it's for a wall hanging rug, you need to break the hide as it's drying. You don't need to wring it out, just hang to slowly dry. You can tell when it goes from damp to dry. This is when you need to "break" it. The non-hair side needs to be broken over a dull-bladed object to stretch the fibers apart. This makes for a softer hide. As it's drying, in between breaking, you'll need to oil the hide with Neetsfoot Oil or another type of leather oil. This helps with the breaking process and helps to soften the hide.
Let me know if it's a taxidermy mount or a wall hanging.
Sounds like you've got things under control.
Email if you have any other questions. Let me know how it's going. - Rick
Rick,
ReplyDeleteThe hide is for a wall hanging. I wanted to ask you, how do you deal with the tail. I removed most of the bone, but not all. Do I make a slit alongside the bone to remove it all, or can some of it stay there and dry out without causing me problems with rotting at a later date? After I wipe off the tanning cream, do I need to wash it with soap etc, or do I go directly to breaking/oiling it? I am just thinking that I need to wash the hairside at some point? Does mink oil work as well as Neetsfoot oil? thanks a bunch!
Anonymous:
ReplyDeleteThe tail has to be split all the way down. Then, you can cut the bone out. This makes it real easy to get the tail out.
After tanning, rinse the hide in cool water. Get the tanning creme off of it. Then, wash it in luke-warm soapy water. Sit for about half an hour. Rinse in cool water to get the soap out. Wring it out, or hang it, to start the drying process. As it starts to dry, you'll be able to tell when to start breaking, when it's almost dry.
Mink oil would work as well, but, it's more expensive. Thanks. - Rick
Hi Rick,
ReplyDeleteI am now working the caribou hide to soften it. It looks really nice, although there is some hair slippage in one spot (3 inches round), this happened when I washed it (after the tanning cream step). It may have been the folded edge (while in the freezer)? I guess that is difficult to patch up, any suggestions? Anyway, it was a great first experience, and I am looking forward to another hide in the near future. Thanks again for your guidance, much appreciated.
All the best in the new year,
'Santa's elf'
Elf:
ReplyDeleteYou can make a football-shaped cut around the hole and sew it up. Make sure when you make the cut you go with the hair, follow the hair. Not across it. This will sew up into a fairly flat line and may work out well for you. You'll be able to see it, but, it won't be like looking at a bald spot. It'll just be a slight seam. Use waxed thread and a heavy needle to sew it up. Sew it from the bottom, the leather side, making sure you keep the hair on top and out of the seam. Let me know how that turns out for you. I'm glad you were able to save the hide. - Rick
hey, i'm working on my first deer mount. I've already fleshed, salted, tanned and thinned the hide. What i'm worried about is i thined the hide after tanning, i'm worried the tanning cream did not penetrate like it should have. The hair seems very secure and i have the hide thined very well. It is in the freezer as I prep my mount. should I go ahead and mount it up or should I try another application of dan rinehart tanning cream? Thanks for all the help. also for coyote tanning, do what tanning chemical do you prefer. I was thinking about using the same tanning cream for that. Thanks
ReplyDeletek2sports2002@yahoo.com
k2sports:
ReplyDeleteIf you're concerned about it, give it another four to five hours of tanning creme. Try to thin the hides before the tanning creme next time.
Yes, this can be used on a coyote too. That's what I use on them, and fox. Good luck. Rick
I am doing an albino buck full body mount and the customer butchered the hide. The buck was killed during bow season and the hide is thin. I'm wondering if you have any ideas on how to conceal the seams on the legs where the customer cut up the entire front of the leg. This deer is so amazing that I hate that the seams are showing! Thanks for any suggestions.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous:
ReplyDeleteYou can try to sew using small stitches and try to conceal the seams. I know it's hard on shorthaired deer. Talk to the customer and if you can place habitate such as long grass or sticks, you may be able to conceal some of the damage. But, talk to the customer and tell him what is going on and make sure his expectations are not too high considering the skinning job.
Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
- Rick
Rick thank you for your posts. If I were going to make a wall hanging would I flesh, salt, then borax or should I tan it. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteJeff M.: I would tan it. It'll be more stable and flexible. - Rick
ReplyDeleteHello I am very happy with your videos and you've helped me a lot I can't seem to find you email could I please have it to get some further info and help
ReplyDeleteFeel free to contact me anytime through this website. Just like you are doing here. I answer all questions within 24 hours and publish them. Everybody can learn from them that way. Thanks for writing in. - Rick
Delete